To Let or not to Let, that is the Question.....

I have a small but perfectly formed apartment to rent. It is in a very pretty seaside town in the centre of the Costa Brava. Until now, it has been let on a long-term basis, but following a disastrous tenant family, I have decided to let it only to holidaymakers for short term stays, so this is new to me.

I realise that letting it this way involves a considerable amount of extra work for me – or for those who do not live nearby their properties, for a managing agent. I have just spent the weekend carefully writing an advertisement to put on line with one of the holiday rental sites. The advert needs to be catchy but accurate and then there is the question of rates, how much to charge for each season or part thereof. Do you only want to let for a week at a time, or also for weekends? There is a good market these days for short-break lets, but of course, they demand even more work for changeovers, cleaning, etc. I have decided to offer stays of a minimum of 3 nights, except in July and August, when the minimum stay is one week.

Unlike with long-term lets, you need to provide plenty of bed linen, towels, dishcloths and kitchen towels. The kitchen should be fully equipped even though most people on holiday tend to go out to restaurants or take picnics. These days, travellers demand high standards and rightly so, but this puts an extra burden onto the property owner to ensure that everything is in excellent order and functioning. Fortunately, I am generally on hand to oversee all this, but most of you will need to employ someone to do this for you and, as with everything that one does from a distance, it is vital to find a reliable managing agent/cleaning agency. In my area, there are several English people who take care of properties throughout the year, or just in the summer season. Some require an annual payment - say of 500€ - to look after everything for the owner, others charge per visit to the property and for call outs. They will arrange for the pool to be maintained, the grass to be mowed, the house to be cleaned, repairs to be made and even, in some cases, for taxis to meet guests at airports or stations. One of my friends runs his own taxi service as well as a property management business and is also a licensed estate agent! It is extremely hard work, requiring long hours and good management skills, but financially rewarding.

The previous Catalan government was about to bring in a law requiring property owners to obtain a licence from the local town hall (ajuntament) to let their property, but following last year's elections, the new regime has not, it appears, followed this up, at least for now.

I suppose one of the main questions you must ask yourself is “do I want strangers in my (2nd) home?” If you can live with that, there is a reasonable income to be gained, though you must declare this to whichever tax authority you are registered with either in the UK or in Spain. There are expenses which can be offset against tax, such as repairs and maintenance. Most owners' incomes fall below the VAT threshold, but those with multiple properties are often classed as “businesses” and so must be registered as such.

I have a few more “tweaks” to do at my apartment before the first visitors arrive, just to make it feel more like a home, less like a hotel. In fact, it was my home originally, and so I have always looked upon it as such and I hope that the various people who stay there from now on will enjoy it as much as I did and treat it with respect.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

BARÇA – the joys and tears

Football is not really my sport. However, having lived in the UK, France and now in Spain, I cannot really avoid it, even if I wanted to. Football it seems, is far more than a game with 22 players, a round ball, 2 goal posts and lines and semicircles marked on a pitch. Rather it gives people a great sense of belonging, of pride, of joy or of sorrow. Nowhere is this more true than in Catalunya where the “only” team is affectionately known as BARÇA:

I expect many of you watched the Barcelona – Arsenal match last week. My little town of Palafrugell was like a ghost town that evening, with practically all of the citizens lodged in bars (no longer smoky!) or with friends at home glued to the TV screens. Every pass, every step, every near miss, every off-side, every yellow card – and indeed the red card – was scrutinised and marked with a clap or a groan. I did not watch the game, I did not need to, as I could hear the cheers and grunts of my many neighbours and so I knew precisely how well, or not, Barça was doing.

It must be said that Barcelona Football Club is unique to the sport. Two-thirds of their players are “home grown”, chosen at a very young age to join the academy and nurtured by the club until they reach the supreme standard required to join the Premier team. When Spain won the World Cup, 7 of the team players came from Barça and the winning goal was indeed scored by Iniesta, so the Catalans joked that Catalunya had won, rather than Spain. The celebrations in the streets that night were memorable, very noisy and extremely good-natured.

Even some Spaniards, i.e. non-Catalans, are prepared to admit that Barça is currently possibly the finest football team ever in the history of the La Liga and that Lionel Messi (along with Christiano Romnaldo) is the best football player. This is praise indeed as there is an historic, cultural, political and fervent rivalry between 2 football clubs in particular, Barça and Real Madrid (Royal Madrid), Ronaldo's team, the former founded in 1899, Real Madrid in 1902.

Barça is also unique in other ways. Its supporters are effectively shareholders and the club is donating 1.5 million Euros to Unicef and proudly wear its logo on their shirts. Tourists and football supporters can visit the Club ground, Camp Nou in Barcelona easily, as one of the main tourist buses takes you to the stadium where you can disembark, enjoy the newly refurbished museum to learn more about the history of this ambassador for Catalunya and wander through the official Club Shop.

Arsenal supporters were no doubt disappointed by last week's result in Barça's favour, but as my neighbour told me, they did not have a shot at goal during the entire match. He did think, though, that the red card for Robin Van Persie was “estúpido”. On 17th April, Barça will play Real Madrid, so once again I will learn about who is winning and who is loosing by the vocal exclamations of my neighbours while I attempt to listen to music or watch a TV programme that isn't showing the match!

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Sea Urchins, Salt Cod and Anchovies...

The majority of people who buy property in Spain want to be close to the sea. With its long coastline, Spain offers a variety of beaches, small coves, rocky inlets and miles of sand. Enjoyable though the beach may be, it is the fruit of the sea which is the real treasure.....wonderful fish, shellfish, rock fish and not least the sea urchin (erizo de mar or garoina in Catalan).

Between mid January and mid March, there are culinary festivals celebrating this jewel of the sea. In Catalunya the better restaurants offer special menus with sea urchins as the stars. A typical menu at 40€ per person more or less, would be a dozen sea urchins (garoinas) as a starter, “fideus” which are a local speciality of noodles (pasta) and a desert, all served with the best local wines. In other parts of Spain different local offerings are served up with the sea urchins. Some hotels offer “sea urchin weekends” - for about 110€ per person you can stay in a good hotel with breakfast included as well as a sea urchin dinner and a cultural visits to places of local interest. Each year the festival includes more interesting excursions and even sea urchin meals at sea!

Of course, at other times of the year, different jewels of the sea become a speciality. Gambas de Palamòs (Palamòs prawns), for example, are a worldwide speciality to be found even as far afield as Los Angles in America in the best hotels and restaurants. These prawns cost a fortune, possibly 140€ a kilo for the largest, but having tasted them (very very occasionally), I have to say they do have a special taste of their own which is totally delicious and different from the normal prawns we consume. They are truffles as opposed to wild mushrooms.

All along the coasts of Spain you can find wonderful fresh fish and seafood. In Cadiz, Andalucia, the speciality is “urta a la roteña" which is bream cooked with tonatoes and peppers. A fish stew packed with the best fish of the area known as "abaja de pescado", is a must when visiting. Galicia, on the Atlantic coast, claims to offer 80 types of seafood, crabs and lobsters in particular. Mussels, squid and a massive variety of clams, cockles and prawns are abundant here, usually cooked in garlic, parsley and lemon and as you walk through the streets the wonderful aroma invades all your senses. In Extramadura fish is the king of “pintxos” or tapas, often spiced up with strong parprika. Another popular speciality in Spain and also south-western France and Portugal is salted cod, or “bacalao”. In times gone by it was necessary to keep the fish in salt to preserve it as of course, fridges did not exist and summer temperatures soared. This tradition is continued with passion today, and you can enjoy the most wonderful dishes of bacalao which do not in any way tatse “salty”.


About 30 minutes' drive from my town is a delightful restaurant that has 17 different bacalao dishes on the menu! This hidden-away centre of culinary excellence is called “L'Hort del Rector” (literally, the Rector's allotment or vegetable garden) and is situated on the edge of the delightful medieval stone village of Monells. The chef is Catalan and his charming wife, Canadian. They have a “menù del dia” Mondays to Fridays where you can enjoy a very good lunchtime meal for around 12€, but it is their à la carte which is so interesting, with the variety of dishes prepared with “bacalao”. My favourite is the one cooked with peppers, chili and white beans..it is truly delicious, at least for those who like spicy food. Another is salt cod with creamed potatoes, an altogether different taste sensation but equally tasty. Elsewhere, you can find yet more ways of cooking bacalao, each region having its own ideas and presentation.

Cod, though, is just one exciting speciality. Anchovies are a big thing in Spain as well. In the north of Catalunya is the seaside town of L'Escala, renouned for its anchovies and considered to be the best on the Catalunyan coast. In season, they are served fresh, for the rest of the year they are usually preserved in glass jars with olive oil and/or vinegar. They are plump and white and wonderful to eat. L'Escala boasts a museum dedicated to the anchovy and they hold a festival each year in honour of these tiny fishes.

Wherever you are near the coasts of Spain, you will have many an opportunity to discover the jewels of the sea, served as tapas or main meals. Each season brings its own delight, each region its own cuisine. Living here, I am indeed fortunate as I can go out and enjoy what the sea provides, knowing it is fresh and recently harvested, nicely presented and to be accompanied by a good local wine...but of that, another time, another blog.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company

http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Carnival and burying the sardine...

The end of February into March is Carnival (Carnaval) Season in Spain. Time to celebrate the coming of spring, longer evenings and warmer days. Time to put aside for a short while the fact that it may still be quite chilly and most evenings are spent indoors, time to go out onto the streets and have fun before the rigours of Lent.

During the Franco dictatorship, Carnaval was banned, so after his death people once again took to the streets to carry on a centuries-old tradition, each region adding its own mark to the celebrations. Interestingly, the Carnaval in both Madrid and Barcelona is quite restrained compared to cities like Sitges and Cadiz. The theory about the origin of Carnaval is that it literally means “farewell to the flesh” (Carne = meat and valle = farewell) which in more religious times was the case as people observed Lent rigorously. Nowadays schools are closed for the event and it is a “fiesta” for all to enjoy, some, it must be said, rather too much as anything goes during Carnaval. A “cohete” (rocket) signals the start of the festival in some towns, in others it could be the deafening sound of a blunderbuss, made louder by the narrowness of the streets and the sound bouncing off the buildings. Whichever method is used, you will not be allowed to sleep late that morning and will be awakened by brass bands and loud bangs quite early, usually around 8.00 am.

Later in the day, there will be a wonderful procession of floats, dancers, musicians and people dressed in impressive and colourful costumes, each group representing a theme. Last year, the most outstanding group were “the flies” whose costumes were truly amazing, we also had “Elvis”, Aztecs, gangsters and molls among a host of other creative ideas. A lot of time and immense effort go into the making of each costume and the decoration of the floats. Everyone, from elderly grandparents to their grandchildren, even in prams, can take part and it is amusing to see how the babies are dressed according to which theme their parents belong. One of the best a few years' ago were red Indians and all the children, including tiny babies were dressed accordingly, with feathers and war paint.

Noise is a vital element in the Carnaval, as are bright colours and dancing. I am fortunate in that I can watch the procession from my terrace, so the full spectacle passes by and the sound volume is slightly reduced. I usually invite friends to join me and we watch with wine flowing and tapas which I have learned to make since moving to Spain. If it is cold, we can “pop”inside for a few minutes to warm up and then return to watch the next float. Yes, it is loud and brash, but also tremendous fun, so if you are thinking of a trip to Spain, it is a good time to visit.

The floats and procession visit different towns within a vicinity over 3 days, so you can catch the show again if you missed part of it the first time. It usually starts after dark on the first night, but on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon there is an earlier parade for small children to enjoy.

On Shrove Tuesday festivities come to an end with a peculiar ceremony – the burying of the sardine ( le entierro de la sardine). One of the stories relating to its origin is that in the 17th Century, King Charles III of Spain decided to celebrate the end of Carnival with his people, commoners. A picnic in the country was arranged and sardines and wine were to offered to everyone. It was unusually hot that day and eventually the sardines began to smell extremely unpleasant. The only way to get rid of the smell was to bury the sardines! The people apparently wept as now there was no free food and ahead of them were the lean days of Lent. In towns near the sea, the sardine is buried, or cremated and its ashes taken out to be scattered over the water. Elsewhere it is burned. It is a strange tradition but so are many customs we still practise in whichever country we may live. Afterwards, you can eat sardines barbecued on large grills set up in squares and may be offered a free chocolate drink to sweeten the start of Lent.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company

http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Viva las Tapas!!

Anyone who has visited Spain will know about TAPAS. Tapas are to Spain what pasta is to Italy – quintessentially part of Spanish cuisine. Tapas however vary considerably from region to region as it is necessary to use fresh, local ingredients to produce good tapas. The origin of tapas is cloudy and it is believed they came from Andalusia in the south. The following story might be true: King Alfonso X, The Wise, (1252 -1284), was ill and needed to take small mouthfuls of food with wine between meals. Once he had recovered he wisely passed a decree stating that no tavern in Castille should serve wine unless there was food to accompany it. This was to prevent the poor of the land drinking alcohol on an empty stomach because they could ill afford a nourishing meal.

Another story relating to King Alfonso and the possible origin of tapas, was that he was travelling with his retinue when they came to Cadiz situated by the sea and well known for its high winds. The servant presenting the king with his glass of sherry, covered the glass with a slice of ham to prevent the sand from entering the king's glass. The word “tapa” literally means “cover” or “lid”. Medieval Spanish inns were no doubt dusty places, so “tapas” would have been a useful method of keeping the sherry or alcohol untainted. Many tapas are rather salty and this might have been to get the clients to drink more alcohol.

Whatever the true origin of these delightful morsels, they are to be found throughout Spain using whatever nature and agriculture has to offer in each area. For example, on the coasts, tapas are made mainly from fish and shellfish, whereas inland, they consist of ham or cheese. In Galicia they are called “pintxos” and elsewhere in the north, “alifara”. Unfortunately these days, “tapas” are often just basic items fried in oil with added salt, catering to the mass market and tourism.

When you come to live in Spain you have the opportunity to seek out “real” tapas, to try food combinations that you might never have though of, and to enjoy the social element of a good tapas bar. In a way, they are a bit like pubs in the UK used to be – a long bar, very few tables & chairs, people standing engaging in much conversation while drinking and consuming their tapas. Some modern tapas bars are more like restaurants where you are served at tables – these are perhaps not as authentic as their narrow bar cousins, but the food and wine can be just as good. I think the best tapas are still to be found in Andalusia, with Galician specialities a close second. Major cities like Madrid and Barcelona also have excellent tapas bars, but they are not usually found in the main tourist areas.

Near to where I live is the pleasant seaside town of Palamòs, which welcomes cruise ships and has an excellent local hospital. The old town, uphill from the port, is quite small but pretty with narrow streets of ancient stone buildings, many of which have become shops and bars. On Saturday, I was invited by friends to join them in Palamòs at a tapas bar which had recently opened. To my delight it is of the traditional style, long bar groaning with a myriad of different tapas to choose from, full of noisy and happy clients, TV showing a Barça football match, excellent beers and wines – plus between 9.00 pm & 10.00 pm, waiters emerging from the small kitchen handing out freshly made hot tapas to the assembled throng, rather as if you were at a cocktail party. I have to say the quality and variety of the tapas they serve are fantastic. How, you may wonder, do they know the amount each customer has consumed? Indeed there is a traditional and clever system...small cold tapas are all served with a cocktail stick in the centre, so they merely count up the number of cocktail sticks you end up with. Other tapas come in small, different shaped dishes, so you pile them up with the cocktail sticks and the staff recognise what you have eaten by the shape of the dish. As to the alcohol imbibed, some bars keep a running tab for each person, others – like the one in Palamòs – rely on the honesty of their clientèle! We were 5 people, the guys had 3 large & 3 small beers, there was a bottle of red wine, one lady had 2 glasses of white wine & another a glass of cava. Together with the tapas eaten, the entire bill was just under 60€!! Wonderful value, wonderful tapas.

I would suggest that you seek out such a bar when you are next in Spain. You may have to ask local people for recommendations, but it is well worth it and don't be afraid to try something you don't recognise as you may well have found what will become your favourite “tapas”!

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Discounts, octopus and car parks...

Last week I went to Girona, capital city of the region in which I live. A friend and I decided to investigate the “fiera” which had been advertised – apparently this happens every year around now, and is set up so that clothes shops, linen and sports shops and others can sell off winter and last season's summer goods at up to 50% discounts. Spain is not like the UK, there are no “permanent” sales or heavily discounted events except in January and in July, at the end of the winter and summer seasons. Even then, you rarely see items for sale at more than 40% discounts, so this “fiera” in Girona is a major opportunity for people to find a good bargain.

The “fiera” was held in a large exhibition hall with each stand well spaced apart, displaying the name and location of the shop. Parking nearby was free and the car parks were full. The strange thing was that, once inside (no entry fee!), the hall seemed very tranquil and we remarked on how civilised it seemed compared to say Olympia in London, where the throng is quite overpowering. This was the perfect place to go if you were looking for something in particular – quality trainers for example, lovely bedlinen or new additions to your wardrobe. Neither my friend nor I had gone with such intentions, so we just wandered around looking for the best buys at each stand. In fact, we came away with very little but the locals were carrying several bags, especially the young, so they had found things that they had wanted.

Smaller towns hold end of season “street sales” whereby local shops sell their discounted stock from stalls, often placed outside the business itself. Here you find a mixture of wares, sometimes handmade items are next to piles of clothes or towels. These sales are usually at the weekends and the public tannoy systems blare out music to encourage a festival atmosphere. How much business is actually done is anyone's guess, but the bars and cafés take full advantage of the crowds so they at least do rather well.

From time to time, towns and larger villages have artisan fairs, where local producers of cheeses, hams and other meats, pastries and breads, wines and olive oil sit side by side with lace makers or wooden toy makers, crafts people and leather workers. It would be wrong to assume that these fairs sell things cheaply, in fact most items are rather expensive but bearing in mind they are not mass produced nor advertised, they offer the chance to taste some really excellent food and drink or to buy a handmade, one-off item for the house or as a present.

Well, after we had walked around both floors of the exhibition hall in Girona, we felt that it was definitely time for lunch and a glass of wine. My friend introduced me to a great little Italian restaurant which offered 2 courses plus glass of good wine for 12.50€ a head, slightly more costly than the usual “menu del dia” but as it turned out well worth the extra euro or two. We both started with “carpaccio de pulpo” (carpaccio of octopus) which was delicious and then had a risotto with sausage and mushrooms which was even more delicious. These, washed down with a glass of good dry white wine, rounded off our day perfectly.....
…. or it would have done had someone not hit my car in the nearby car park and broken the nearside rear light. However, our faith in human nature was quickly restored when we noticed a piece of paper on the windscreen, which turned out to be hastily written note in Catalan with a telephone number.

The next day, I rang the number and spoke to a charming man who explained that a colleague from the college where he worked in Girona had accidentally hit my car and if I would get an estimate from a garage in my town, the college would pay for the damage. This evening, I am going to collect my car, now repaired and all being well the college will refund the cost as promised. Watch this space.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

To buy or not to buy...that is the question

I was sitting in the town square on Sunday morning, drinking coffee with some friends. It was warm enough for just a top and cardigan so we were really enjoying the sunshine. Sunday is market day here, so all the shops are open until 1.00 pm and there is a real bustle going on. We have a daily food market Tuesdays to Saturdays but on Sunday the streets come alive as much of the town is taken over by stalls selling everything from oranges to suitcases!

My friends have been renting an apartment in a pretty seaside town while they search for a property to buy. The have been renting now for 5 months and are considering renting permanently rather than buying but this will mean they will have to move as they only have a short-term lease on their apartment, which is up to one year. Long term letting requires different regulations and is heavily weighted in favour of the tenant. The duration of the lease is 5 years, during which time the tenant may leave, giving one month's notice. The owner must inform the tenant in writing that they do not wish to continue renting the property one month before the 5 year period ends or the contract will continue for another 3 years.

My friends see advantages in renting. Apart from paying the rent which sometimes includes a community charge if it is in a block of flats, and the usual utility bills, all other expenses fall upon the owner who must, by law, keep the property in good condition, but the owner is not responsible for repairing any damage caused by the tenant. It is the owner who must pay property taxes and insure the building. You can find both furnished and unfurnished rentals, many these days in brand new blocks. Some come with an opportunity to purchase the property after a period of 2 years and the rent already paid will go towards to the purchase cost.

By renting, my friends feel that they have less to worry about with inheritance tax, which is true, as all property is liable to this tax in Spain, whether it is owned by a resident or not. We discussed the question of security, knowing that no-one can force you to move within the rental period, but also the insecurity of knowing that at the end of 5 years you might have to move. Five years may seem a long time, but in fact it passes quickly, especially if you are settled and enjoying life.

The owners of the apartment they are currently renting are only interested in renting the property for short-term lets, mostly to holidaymakers. This involves extra expense as unless you are on the spot and have the time, you will need to employ a managing agent to arrange for cleaning , linen change, etc between lets. Some people advertise their holiday property on websites especially formulated for owners to manage the lettings, others prefer to use trusted local agents to fill their properties and yet others use a mixture of the two. Good properties in popular areas can generate a reasonable income but beware – this income is taxable, whether you are a UK or Spanish resident and must be declared.

I have quite a few friends who act as managing agents for UK property owners, some require a percentage of the rental, others a flat fee for the year. This can be quite stressful work especially during the height of the season in July and August, when there is just a short time to clean a property between one tenant leaving and the next arriving. The managing agent also has to deal with any urgent repairs or other problems on behalf of the owner, make sure the pool is in good order, that the pump works properly and that the gardens are well maintained. It is not a job for the faint-hearted!

Well, only time will tell whether my friends finally decide to rent or buy. For the moment, they are enjoying their rental apartment by the sea, content in the knowledge that should there be any problem, the landlord is required to deal with it efficiently.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

Baked beans and Cheddar cheese in Spain

It was a Monday. I had just been to a meeting at my bank and was driving home via a supermarket. I looked up at the sky which was the clearest blue you can imagine, not a cloud in sight and my car registered an outside temperature of 10º. The clock indicated 3.15 in the aftrnoon. Instead of turning left for the supermarket, I went right at the roundabout and headed 4 kms towards the little village of Llafranc.

I live on the Costa Brava, roughly a costal area that stretches from the French border in the north to Lloret de Mar to the south. My town is about one hour from France and is 4kms inland from the sea, but I have 3 fabulous beaches, set in small coves just a few minutes' drive away – Calella de Palafrugell, Tamariu and Llafranc. So, that day I headed to Llafranc,the smallest, but for me, the most charming of the three. Parking was easy because we are in winter. Sadly, in the summer, parking is more of a problem, though one can always find a spot in which a car will fit, albeit a bit of a walk away from the sea. On that Monday however, there was virtually no one there. The sun was warm, the shade chilly. I walked along the seafront looking at the light glistening on the shimmering sea. I went to the little port and walked to the promontory as far as it stretched out to sea and then back towards the village. It occurred to me that I was indeed fortunate to live where I do. Sometimes our busy lives prevent us from appreciating what we have, what is on our doorstep and what opportunities there are to enjoy ourselves locally, often for free. On that Monday, I was in the sun, strolling in a beautiful place, breathing in iodine and sea air, virtually alone and it did not cost me one centim!

There were a few people in the Hotel Llafranc, drinking coffee or finishing their wine after, no doubt, a very good lunch, all looking at the lovely view across the bay. This hotel/restaurant, like many of a similarly good standard, have weekday menus from 18€ a head, inclusive sometimes of wine, water and bread. The service is always good, the food often a modern twist on traditional fare.The house wines are always worthy of the restaurant so I see no reason to go to their excellent wine list unless you are celebrating a special occasion.

Just about an hour later, I arrived back at my car, feeling altogether much better for the exercise and fresh air....but also for the stillness, the tranquillity and the visual therapy of the beauty that is Llafranc. All too soon, daily life resumed as I headed for the supermarket.

Having said that, it needs qualifying. When I am in the UK, I much enjoy a visit to Sainsbury or Morrisons, both of which are near where my sons live, each in different parts of England. Every time I am frankly astounded about the choice available for every conceivable item and I treat myself to things not readily available in Spain. Although we have many different supermarkets here – some you will already know, like Carrefour, Lidl and Aldi – others are more regional or Spanish, such as Esclat (a bit like Waitrose) or Caprabo or Mercadona, you will not find everything you feel you need in one alone. My supermarket trip that Monday was to my local Carrefour, where I go for very specific things. Their fish counter is small but good and much cheaper than the fishmongers in the daily market. They do also sell a small range of goods for “foreigners”, baked beans, water biscuits, some English and other cheeses, etc. Being of French ownership, Carrefour caters very much for French tastes, which suits me well as I lived in France for 12 years before moving here to the Costa Brava. There are throughout Spain specialist “English” food shops for those who really miss a taste from home, my nearest is actually a good hour's drive away in Lloret de Mar, so I never use it, though I know several people who do.

I also feel quite strongly that if you choose to move abroad to live, for whatever reason – better climate, better way of life, children's education, retirement, then as much as possible you should embrace what your new country has to offer and perhaps forego certain items that are traditionally from your country of origin in favour of new flavours and new cuisine. Most expats I know ask friends and relatives to bring them “treats” such as a good cheddar cheese, back bacon, even jersey new potatoes! This is good, this is how it should be as these things should be “treats” or they become a necessity in a country where they are frankly, a rarity!

Bon appetit! Buen aprovecho! Bon profit! (Catalan)

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Driving on the right side

I don't know about you, but I feel nervous about driving in a foreign country – at least for the first few hours or sometimes for a day or so. Well, after 15 years' away, the UK is a “foreign” country for me and so I try to avoid driving when I am there and trust that my family and friends will be kind enough to transport me or I use public transport. There are so many signs on English roads, variable speed limits, speed cameras, warnings not to do this or that and of course, a lot of traffic in all but rural areas and apart from the ubiquitous yellow lines, there are now red lines (urban clear-ways, I think).

I cannot pretend that there is no traffic in Spain, but once you get used to driving on the right, it is generally a more pleasant experience. Major cities and conurbations do attract a lot of cars, lorries & motorcycles but once away from these centres, the main roads are good with smoothly flowing traffic, the motorways (autopistas) are excellent, though you will have to pay to use them, the “B” roads are also good, with few distractions. Roundabouts are used more here than traffic lights out of the town centres and there are inevitably speed cameras, but nowhere as many nor so closely packed as in the UK. In Catalunya the drivers are mostly courteous and it is obligatory to stop at pedestrian crossings if someone wishes to cross, which makes walking much safer. Sometimes, I have to admit, the crossings are too close to each other, which can delay the traffic, but as I am a pedestrian as well as driver, I am happy to be able to cross the road conveniently.

Road near Madrid

If you come to live in Spain from any EU country, you may keep your existing driving licence until it expires, or if you incur any points for traffic “crimes”, you will have to change your licence to a Spanish one. The process for changing it is relatively simple. You will need to go to your Provincial Traffic Headquarters, in my case in the city of Girona and take with you your passport, NIE number (foreigners identity number), your old licence, 2 recent photos, a written declaration that the driver has not been suspended or banned from driving plus another stating that the driver does not hold a similar licence in another country. Your new licence will be sent by post.

In Spain, licences need regular renewal. They are valid for 10 years if you are under 45, 5 years between 45 & 70, and just 2 years after 70, when you are required to bring a medical certificate for each renewal. As in the UK there is a points system for traffic offences, starting with a credit of 12 points.

One things that seems to be a universal problem is parking! Most small towns provide free car parking but this is usually situated some distance from the centre. It is inevitably difficult to park anywhere on market and fiesta days, during the high summer season and at Easter, however a little exploration down side streets where you see just white lines, may prove worthwhile, as this is also free parking. Blue lines mean you must pay at a meter. One thing I have discovered is that the space provided for each vehicle tends to be narrower than in the UK..I eventually gave in & bought a smaller car which has proved to be a very wise decision.

Anyway, wherever you are, happy motoring!

Sally

Tha Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com

Flu, cigarettes and fresh air

Having much enjoyed 2 weeks in the UK with my family and friends it is good, however, to get back to a normal routine, catch up with those things put to one side and to wonder what 2011 will bring. As I write, the sun is shining and it is pleasantly warm here in north-east Spain, which is as good a start to the new year as one could wish for.

Whilst I was in England I was able to catch up with most of the newspapers. Of course, we can buy English papers here daily, as most are printed in Spain, but they are quite expensive and one usually buys just one. I much enjoyed reading many, the different points of view, the different editorials. The Independent of 22 December ran a very interesting article about Healthcare in Lombardy (Italy), which is one of the “Four Engines” in Europe for excellence. I was delighted to learn that Catalunya is another of these “Engines”, together with Baden Wurttemberg in Germany and Rhones-Alpes in France.

I have mentioned before that the health service here is extremely good and efficient. It was surprising to find that there is a UK national debate about flu vaccines this winter as here in Spain, all those in “at risk” groups are automatically contacted and given the jab. Others can get a prescription from their Doctor and buy the vaccine for 7€. People here accept that flu “la gripa”, is a normal occurrence in winter and so protect themselves accordingly.

Today I went for a routine blood test at my local CAP (Centre d'Assistencia Primaria) – the local clinic, offering GP and paediatric services, blood tests and a first-line 24 hour emergency service. The system here for blood tests is that about 80 people arrive at the CAP at 8.00 am and wait inside for their name to be called. You are then given a small plastic jar containing whatever number of phials you need & asked to go to another area to be shown to a cubicle where the blood is taken. The whole process takes about 15 minutes and you can be on your way, though in some larger centres it may take a little longer. It is not “cosy” but is highly efficient and practical and negates too much waiting around for the patient. Next Monday I shall see my doctor for the results.

That out of the way, I went for a walk in the countryside as the sun had just shown its face to the world. At this time of the year there is still a lot of greenery here but as yet no real signs of the emergence of Spring, though they shouldn't be too far away. It was very quiet, just 2 or 3 others with their dogs nodding “buenos dias” as we passed. It was now 8.30 am. and I was in no hurry as apart from the school children arriving for a day in class, the rest of the town was just waking. Offices open here at 9.30 or 10.00 and apart from local food shops, commerce does not fling open its doors until at least 10.00 am. Many foreigners find it difficult to get used to the shop opening hours in Spain, which differ in each region with a longer closure for a “siesta” in the south than in the north. Here in my town for example, the hours are 10.00 -1.00 and 5.00 -8.00 or 8.30, giving a four-hour siesta each day. Just down the coast, shops stay open until 1.30 and in Girona, the capital of this province, many stay open all day. At the height of summer you can shop till 9.00 or even 9.30, but in the south shops often stay open until midnight!


On my way home I walked passed a pleasant corner café and stopped for a “cortado” (small strong coffee with a dash of milk) and mingled with workmen having a quick breakfast before heading to their work. As of 2nd January this year, ALL smoking in public places is banned and you can't even smoke outside hospitals and other sensitive areas. As a non-smoker, I am absolutely thrilled to be able to enter one of the typical small Spanish bars without being confronted by a sea of smoke or to be able to eat a meal without the smell of a cigar wafting over me. Of course, I do understand that for smokers this is a difficult time, adjusting to a new regime and so, just as in the UK, there are groups of smokers standing outside, only here at least, they can usually enjoy their cigarettes in a warm climate. As for the rest of us – we can now breathe easily!

Wishing you all a Happy New Year

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

The Three Kings, cakes and the New Year

I do hope that everyone managed to be with their friends and family over the festive period, as the weather decided to disrupt every type of travel around Europe. Now we are in a new year and I suppose we all wait with anticipation, wondering what 2011 will have in store for us.

Here in Spain, the festivities go on for a while! 6th January is one of the most important days of the calendar here, the day of the 3 Kings (tres Reis), when most local towns put on a pageant, mainly for the children, with the “Three Wise Men” as we know them, the 3 Kings here, riding in open horse-drawn carriages throwing sweets to the children in the crowd.. Other floats follow and this at dusk is something that the entire family looks forward to. In Sant Feliu de Guixols, on the coast and just 40 minutes' from Girona, the crowd gathers early to get a good position for the children to be able to catch the sweets thrown on either side, wrapped in colourful paper, easy to spot when they fall, as inevitably they do, on the ground. Traditionally, this was the day when children received their “Christmas presents”, but now, due to advertising and external customs, most children open their presents on Christmas Eve. Nevertheless, 6th January remains an extremely important event for everyone, so every year we hope the weather will be kind as we stand outside for 2-3 hours!

There is also a very special cake to be eaten on this day. It is a cake baked in a ring, so hollow in the centre and inside are hidden a miniature figure of a king or other court member and a bean – the person who receives the king in their slice will be “the King” of the household for the day, and the poor individual who finds the bean is the “servant”of the king for that day. It is a bit of fun and everyone looks forward to this as much laughter and ribaldry goes on when either the “king” or the “servant” are revealed.

On 7th January it is all over. Life begins in earnest again, businesses begin to think about the year ahead, late or “lost” postal deliveries slowly start arriving, the Christmas trees and decorations are taken down and everyone looks forward to the Spring with optimism. In these times of economic hardship, many will be facing the next few months with some anxiety. Before Christmas, some supermarkets were asking their clients to buy extra items to be put in a trolley for families who had become victims of the economic downturn and I am happy to say that in my town, almost everyone did contribute. Despite all the gloom, Spain does have several things in its favour, an excellent climate overall, some stunning coastline and pretty towns not ruined by over development – though one might not believe this it be generally true according to some foreign press articles – generally friendly people who regard tourism as a good thing, a country which over the last 40 years or so has modernised itself and is in the forefront of medical and technical excellence and last but not least, a country which retains its traditions but now looks to the future.

I really hope that Spain continues to deal with its financial adversity well as I, for one, thoroughly enjoy my life here and would not hesitate to encourage others to sample this existence for themselves, always of course, having taken proper advice from lawyers, tax consultants and the like before making the journey.

A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU ALL

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

Feasts, Baracas and the simple life...

Last Wednesday was FIESTA time here (so was last Monday, but that was Constitution Day, Wednesday was religious, celebrating the Immaculate Conception). Unexpectedly, I was invited by local friends to join them at their “Baraca” for lunch. Over the time I have lived here, I have tried to determine the true meaning of “Baraca” as this is not the first time I have been invited to such a location. Originally, it seems, the word “baraca” meant a hunting lodge, situated outside a village or town, where men would meet to enjoy the cooking and savouring of the game they had caught. Also, much drinking of locally brewed beer and wine carried on and no doubt they told many ribald jokes, entirely unsuitable for ladies who were not present at these festivities.



These days things have changed. A “baraca” is now the term for a basic building, out of town, on an allotment, in the countryside or anywhere in which the family get together for fiestas, birthdays or any occasion to be celebrated. It must be said that some “baracas” are rather grandiose affairs, with electricity, gas, loos and even bedrooms and bathrooms. Others, like the one I visited on Wednesday are simple constructions, in this case, 2 rooms at one end of a large allotment, one with a an open fire on which our sausages were cooked, the other without heating or electricity where we sat around a large table groaning with food brought in from my hosts' home. The weather was particularly kind that day, the temperature reaching 16º at its height and the sun pouring into our eating area – just as well, or it would have been very very cold in there! The delicious lunch comprised an apple & tuna salad, numerous and varied types of sausage and chorizo, avocado, a wonderful bread with the typical Spanish tomato spread on it, pork patties fried in breadcrumbs (taught to my hostess by her German friends), and best of all for my taste, a very hot and spicy home-made Romesco sauce (tomatoes, mayonnaise, herbs, chili and spices). The remains are currently in my fridge! Plenty of fresh fruit for dessert and a special cake with almonds and marzipan which is eaten at this time of the year. This was indeed a true feast.

The sun was still shining into the baraca after we had washed up and stored the plates, so we sat down to a game of dominoes, followed by a Spanish card game I had to learn called “La Brisa” which was great fun and I seemed to have beginners' luck as I won each time! It occurred to me that, fundamentally, we are all much the same, wherever we live and whatever language we speak – a good meal with family and friends, a game of cards, laughter is to be enjoyed anywhere, even in a basic shed with a tin roof lit by the sun on a Wednesday in December. Perhaps in these days of ultra consumerism, we should try to spend more time enjoying the simpler things and remember that the secret of such enjoyment is sharing whatever we have with those we love.

On Thursday, at last, the shops began to decorate their windows in a Christmas style. Unlike in the UK, they generally wait until after 8 December (Immaculate Conception) to bring out the trees, baubles and glitter, but it is not overdone here in any way, Each town and village has Christmas lights but there is not that frantic pre-Christmas bustle in Spain. Traditionally, the children do not get their presents until 6 January (Tres Reis - 3 kings), but with the pressure of TV advertising and customs learnt from immigrants, some do now receive a present on Christmas Eve. Christmas Day is very much a family day here as it is in the UK, and they celebrate the 26th December too, St. Estephan (St Stephen's Day). Christmas Carols, roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes are an essential part of Christmas in Catalunya as in other parts of Spain and I really have the feeling that it is still a religious-cum-family celebration here, not totally overwhelmed by commercialisation, at least for the time being.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

Spanish Laws...are they loco?

Every country has its peculiarities, especially legal ones. Spain has a cluster all of its own, so it is vitally important that you check and if necessary, re-check laws that may affect you if you come to live here permanently or just own a second home somewhere on the Spanish peninsular.

This week, a woman from Galicia, north-west Spain, has legally registered herself as the owner of the SUN. This was done under Spanish Law at a notary's office. She now intends to “charge” us all for the use of the SUN and says she will give the larger part of her new-found income to the government to help with the current economic crisis, some to stall the reduction of pensions and 10% she will keep for herself. Now..just imagine if she “charged” us all a nominal 1€ a month: that would 40,000,000€ each and every 4 weeks rolling into her coffers. Any government would be happy to have a large part of that income without having to do anything for it.

This brings me to yet another thought: that all governments are constantly finding ways of increasing their income for virtually no effort on their part which, I suspect, is why the government of Catalunya has recently passed a law concerning everyone who wishes to rent out a property for 3 months or less, i.e. to tourists. It is now necessary to obtain a licence to rent out your property for tourism and you need to go in person to the Ajuntament (Town Hall) to obtain it. Fees and requirements have been left up to each individual Ajunatment. The property owner will also be responsible for any problems caused by their holiday-let tenants and fines for failing to obtain the licence are expected to be very high.

You should not be put off the idea of renting out your property as it can still be very lucrative, especially from mid-June to mid-September. I suspect that landlords will try to put up their rental prices to cover the extra costs involved in getting the licence, but this may not be wise just at the moment when money is tight and the holiday rental market is extremely competitive. Good properties, though, near beaches or other leisure attractions always find holidaymakers to fill them.

I have a pretty 2 bedroom apartment in lovely seaside town to the south of Girona. Until now, I have let it out on a long-term rental but since my last tenants left without paying several months' rent, I will relaunch it for holiday lets from next Easter. I will now have to negotiate the new licence law in that particular town, so will be able to tell you more about what it involves as time goes by. I already have the “Cèdula d'Habitabilitat”, a certificate of habitability from the Generalitat of Catalunya (Catalan Government), which you need this for either long or short term lets. It is one of the “good” requirements as you only receive it once the property has been declared in good order and fit for habitation, which is necessary for everyone's peace of mind.

It is also possible that this new “Law” may not in fact be implemented. There were elections on Sunday for the Generalitat (government of Catalunya) and the balance of power has swung away from the ruling party. It may well be that, with hindsight, they decide that this licensing law will be detrimental to the tourist industry here and therefore “put it to one side”. Is that not Loco?

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

The joys of Spanish trains

I went to Barcelona on Friday to meet a friend for lunch, visit a wholesale jewellery company and to collect my new glasses. All this in 4.5 hours. I am lucky as every time I go there the sun shines and as I walk the streets of this lovely, vibrant city, the sun catches a Gothic window, the side of a contemporary office block, a statue or shop front and lights them up like Christmas tree lights.

Being the capital city of Catalunya, Barcelona is steeped in history, old and not so old, as the Summer Olympic Games were held there in 1992 and an entirely new “Olympic village” was constructed by the sea. That was probably the year in which the World discovered Barcelona, now one of Europe's top tourist destinations.

For those of us who live within reach of the city, it is much more than just a sightseeing destination, as Barcelona can happily compete with London or Paris for wonderful shops, great little restaurants, a fantastic daily covered market (La Boqueria), opera, concerts and musicals. It is about a 90 min drive from where I live but I usually take the train. The MD (media distancia) fast train goes from Figueres near the French border right to the heart of Barcelona and there are several stations on the way where we can board. I usually drive 35 minutes to Caldes de Malavella which lies to the south and so nearer to my destination. Others catch the train at Flaça which is a shorter run but the train journey is rather longer. RENFE is the Spanish Rail Network. The MD trains are clean, modern and fast. Generally speaking trains arrive according to the timetable but the stations vary with regard to comfort. There is usually free parking by the station, so I leave the car there not worried about how much the parking will cost if I delay my return by another hour. The station at Caldes has recently been renovated externally and internally and is actually a beautiful building with wonderful Art Nouveau tiles in the foyer. Of course you can get to Barcelona by train from all directions and with equally good services. The AVE trains are hi-tec, super fast long distance trains, from Madrid to Barcelona taking just 2hrs 30 minutes.

When I go over to the UK and travel by train, I am truly shocked at the ticket prices. Here in Spain, train travel is much cheaper for everyone. There are various cards one can buy which give large discounts, one especially good one, the DORADA (gold) card, is for people over 60 and gives a 40% discount on MD trains & 25%-40% on AVE trains. The DORADA card is purchased annually at a current cost of 5.10€ !!

So on Friday, I took the train to the centre of Barcelona, the Passieg de Gracia, where I met my friend & we went to the jewellery company she works for. I couldn't resist a pair of earrings sold to me at cost price. We then collected my new glasses (much cheaper in Barcelona than in the smaller towns) and set off for lunch. There is such an amazing choice of eateries, but we decided to return to one of our favourites, on the Passeig de Gracia itself, so near the train station. Housed on the first floor above a good Tapas bar, is Restaurant Citrus, a contemporary space where one is never too close to anyone else. They do not have a Menù del Dia, but the prices of the dishes are reasonable and the cuisine which is modern catalan, is excellent. Drinks are a bit pricey, but then you are right in one of the smartest parts of Barcelona. Just time to savour my lunch before strolling to the station and a one hour train journey back to Caldes. I was home by 6.25 pm having had a great day out.

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company

http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Getting yourself involved when in Spain

I was sitting in the main square of my town, enjoying a “cortado”, (small strong coffee with a dash of milk), when a friend, in the company of 2 others passed by. They joined me and I discovered that the couple had recently bought a house in a particularly pretty village nearby. They are really excited about their new home and are looking forward to retiring there in a couple of years' time. We chatted and they seem to have thought about most things related to moving to another country and indeed living full time away from their homeland, but I wondered to myself if they as yet realise that the winter here in Catalunya can be long and cold or mild and damp or very pleasant – one just doesn't know. Might they feel a little isolated in their pretty village?

Next time I see them I shall tell them about the U3A Costa Brava which is an excellent and very active organisation of which I am a member. The U3A began in Toulouse, France, in 1972 as a summer school for retired people, based around the university. In the 1980s the idea had developed into an association based on self -help and run by the members themselves in various towns and cities. Today the U3A is present in most countries, the latest association having been formed in Hong Kong.

Here on the Costa Brava we are very fortunate to have a U3A group providing around 40 different activities, some weekly, others monthly. Of course, you can't join everything, but there is such a wide variety of interests, you are bound to want to join several of them. The only requirements to join are that you are over 50 and speak English, so our members are not confined to British ex-pats as we have Dutch, German, French, American, Japanese & South American members too. Annual membership is currently 14€ per person.

One of my favourite is the Local Interest group, which is about discovering more of the area in which we live. Members arrange visits to interesting and sometimes unusual places and always with a good lunch afterwards in a local restaurant. In fact, I am involved with a friend in leading the group this month to the Civil War Museum in La Jonquera, the main border town with France. We will have an English-speaking guide and will learn more about the Spanish Civil War and its effects on the local population, which suffered very badly. I think it is necessary to learn these things to better understand the people in whose land we now reside.

I also belong to one of the many different walking groups, petanca, gardening and family history groups. I hope that the couple I met the other day will join the association as apart from anything else, the U3A is a social organisation, so they would feel less isolated and lunch is always on the agenda after the activity if you choose to join others at the restaurant.

Interesting activities are not solely confined to the U3A however. You can learn Catalan and Spanish (very advisable to learn one if you are planning to live here!), join a gym, go to Pilates and yoga classes, play golf and tennis, learn to dance Sevilliana, Flamenco or Sardanes, the list is endless.

At the weekends, I really enjoy going to antique and second-hand street markets or to a car boot sale which is held every weekend further up the coast towards France. It is amazing what you can find as people of all nationalities take stalls and sell a vast variety of items they no longer need. I must do the same one of these days as I have boxes of stuff that I no longer use and someone else could employ. My nearest market is in the beautiful town of Pals on Saturday mornings, located in a circular park.... I need to sort out the items, load my car & go, but Saturdays are so busy with other things!

Until next time

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Guess the amount of documents we needed!

I went with a friend to Girona the other day. Girona is the capital city of my corner of Catalunya and home to all the government and administrative offices as well as having a wonderful old town with cobbled streets, a cathedral, Arab baths, parks and an archaeological walk around what is left of the ramparts.Girona is largely unspoilt by tourism and is a discreet city often overlooked by travellers heading for the bright lights of Barcelona, about 90kms to the south. Straddling the banks of the River Ter, the brightly painted old houses hang over the water as sentinels of times gone by. The old town is a maze of alleyways and little squares, each keeping its own secret – perhaps a cafe in the cellar, perhaps a shop frontage that has withstood the ravages of centuries past. On the other side of the river is the “new” town, part of it very much of the 18th Century, with the lovely arched Plaça de Independcia teeming with restaurants and tapas bars. Not too far away is the covered market, open every morning. Girona is also a cultural city, with well presented museums and art centres as well as a strong musical tradition. After many visits, my friend and I have only touched the surface of this intriguing city .

Our trip was not for pleasure really as my friend decided she wanted to change her UK driving licence to a Spanish one and since her knowledge of both Castilian (Spanish) and Catalan is poor, she asked me to tag along as interpreter. Navigating ones way through Spanish bureaucracy requires extreme patience and fortitude. In fact, if you have an EU driving licence, you do not have to change it to a Spanish one, but you should register it with the traffic authority. My friend decided that she wanted to change hers, so we found ourselves at the offices of the Traffic Department.

It is vital before you go to any of the government agencies that you check..and recheck... what paperwork you need to present, otherwise you will have made a wasted journey, stood in a queue for ages and felt utterly frustrated. In the case of my friend and her driving licence, she needed to show:

• Proof of identity (passport original and copy)
• Proof of residence (Certificate of Registration in the Central Aliens Register - the NIE number (foreigners identification number))
• Valid driving licence to be exchanged (original and copy)
• Two recent photographs (32 by 25 mm)
• Declaration in writing stating that the applicant has not been banned or suspended from driving
• Declaration in writing stating that the applicant does not hold another driving licence of the same class in another country
  

Her new licence will arrive by post & will be credit card size. I should mention we were lucky that day as the queue was short and we were dealt with by a very pleasant and helpful lady who insisted on explaining everything to us twice as she somehow worked out we were foreigners!
Business done, we headed for Girona old town for lunch. We settled on a restaurant called Mimolet, near the cathedral, not the cheapest but which serves very good bar food. The weather was kind that day, so we sat outside on the terraza enjoying a well earned glass of Cava – Catalunya's answer to champagne and very good it is too!

It was time to head home, but not before we agreed to come back to Girona sooner rather than later to go window shopping (at least that is what my friend said) and sit at a cafe on the Rambla Llibertat watching the world go by, perhaps visit an Art Exhibition or come back on a Saturday when there is a huge market (also on Tuesdays) and a flower market on the Rambla. It is just a question of finding the time.........

Sally Veall
The Overseas Guides Company
Have you visited the main website yet? http://www.spainbuyingguide.com

Have you ever been to a mushroom festival?

Do you like mushrooms? I adore mushrooms – not the closed-cap variety available all year in supermarkets – no, real mushrooms, hidden in the woods in secret places, which when found, are carefully picked, carried gingerly back home and then cooked in virgin olive oil, garlic and parsley. Absolute heaven!

Well, it is mushroom season in Catalunya, North Eastern Spain. Many small villages and larger towns hold mushroom festivals here, where you are drawn into this secret world of fungi. They lay out every type of mushroom you can imagine and carefully signal which are edible are which are likely to cause illness and even death if eaten. Then there are the tastings.."rossynols" are my favourite, a deep yellow with long fine stalks. Also there are "ceps", the most expensive, selling at 50-100€ a kilo, with a deep mushroom colour and intense mushroom flavour.

Tastings are not confined to local festivals. Many restaurants have special menus using the various types of mushroom and it is definitely worth a visit to one or more as somehow the local chefs manage to make an "ordinary fungus" taste like nectar from the gods. In fact, Catalunya is home to many culinary delights, one of the most famous restaurants in the world, El Bulli, is situated just across from the French border in Cadaques. Sadly, the owner, Ferran Adria, has decided to close it for two years and is taking time out to reinvent his cuisine and is currently working in Barcelona.

You don't need to spend a fortune, however, to eat well here. I frequently go out with friends for lunch and we are served a three-colour meal for 10 – 14€ per person, usually including a good local wine, water and bread. It costs more in the evenings – I have never really understood why, except that the lunchtime clientèle includes workmen and in the evenings, the restaurants imagine that they have a different clientèle, which is not usually the case, except that the workmen are now dressed for dinner. We tend to enjoy our lunches and entertain at home in the evenings, except of course on special occasions when throwing caution to the wind, we head for one of the "better" restaurants and usually are truly favourably surprised at the quality and service we receive for around 30-40€ a head.

My local restaurant which has a delightful outside space in a semi-private garden (which I overlook!!), serves an excellent lunchtime meal for 12€ all in. They have a vast menu of starters and a smaller but excellent choice of main courses and most of the "postres" (deserts) are home made. The wine is excellent too. My friends and I have enjoyed many a happy few hours there, in the shade of the garden in hot summer and if we decide to splash out on a second bottle of wine, we are charged only about 7€. One does not, of course, spend every day having lunch in such delightful places. There is a very active U3A here on the Costa Brava which invites one to visit interesting localities … but more of this in my next Blog.

Meanwhile, if you are anywhere near a mushroom festival, (in the UK, France, Italy or Spain) I urge you go along, increase your joy and knowledge by discovering one of nature's best kept secrets.

Sally Veall
The Overseas Guides Company
Go to the main website at: http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Autumn Leaves and walks by the sea - Bliss

Autumn, according to the poet John Keats, is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness and this is also true here in Catalunya, northeast Spain. The days are still warm but there is a chill at night and early morning, mists hover over valleys and many trees are now bearing their fruit. It is the step between the long hot summer and the winter months ahead, lulling us back into the warmth of our homes. Yes, here we have all the seasons.

Autumn brings us golden and red leaves which start falling, flocks of starlings on their way south...I reckon each evening there are about 300 perched on roof tops, a nearby crane and in the treetops which I look out at from my office. It is an amazing sight. Autumn also brings with it more unpleasant things, coughs and colds, flu season and central heating. Thankfully, the National Health Service here is available to rescue us. Each region of Spain runs its own health service and the system in Catalunya is excellent. I had my free flu jab yesterday, available to those over 60, people with respiratory and lung problems and also to children at risk. For the rest, there is a small cost to have the vaccine. Most towns and large villages have a medical centre known as the CAP (Centre de Attenció Primària) which is like a large clinic with GPs and other front line medical staff plus an emergency department which is open day and night.Their job is to treat your condition if they can or to refer you to the local hospital or specialist if they can’t.

That brings me to the local hospital, in my case located in a pretty seaside town called Palamós. Unfortunately, I have got to know this place rather well during the time I have lived here and once you get used to the system (which isn’t particularly cosy nor blessed with a great bedside manner), you will find an excellent medical service with totally up-to-date X-ray, scanners and other necessary medical aides. Their job is to cure you.

CAP PALAFRUGELL
(local health centre)

Of course autumn brings other activities too. Walks by the sea bathed in the lowering sunlight, jazz evenings in courtyards, sitting in local restaurants with a group of friends bemoaning the fact we can no longer sit outside at night, but warm and comfortable in the rustic interiors. And let's not forget the tramuntana wind which comes from the Pyrennees and blows hard with a distinct chill for 3 days, it's dryness taking humidity out of the air.

Yes, autumn here on the Costa Brava is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness.

Please contact me if you have any questions about life on the Costa Brava.

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
Visit my main website at: http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Living in Catalunya

Hola!! My name is Sally and I will be writing the Spain Blog. I live in Catalunya (Catalonia) which is in the north-east of Spain & stretches from the French border to just north of Valencia. It is a region of contrasts, sea, mountains, beautiful and varied countryside, old medieval stone villages & towns and a language of its own, Catalan. Of course you can speak Castillian (Spanish) here but it helps if you try to speak their language as well. Catalan classes are free for newcomers and it is worth the effort as you will find new doors opening to you, even if you only speak a few words.

My town is just 4kms from some of the most beautiful beaches on the Costa Brava, which means "Wild Coast". It is a land of little coves, often hidden from the modern roads, where you take earthy tracks down to the sea. The three nearest beaches to me are Callela, Llafranc and Tamariu, each one with its own identity and ambiance. There is an easy and beautiful coastal walk among pine trees with stunning views which is widely used by locals and visitors alike.

Well, that is where I live. Why did I choose to move here from France where I lived for 12 years? Actually it was almost by accident as my husband was in contact with several people in Valencia & Barcelona universities and we were making regular car journeys from where we lived, about 60 minutes north-west of Toulouse, to both these cities. Eventually we decided that it would be easier if we moved closer to them and so we began discovering the Costa Brava, far enough from the big city, but with good communications in all directions.


I mistakenly imagined that the Catalans in Catalunya would be similar to those in south-west France, and yes - they do speak the same language, but the local and cultural difference become evident once you live here. Over the next months, I hope to tell you about the history & culture of what is now a very modern Catalunya which is in itself part of a very modern post-Franco Spain.

I love living here, even in the Winter when people generally stay indoors after dark but are to be seen on coastal walks or at special events at the weekends. I look out across the town of Palafrugell towards the Pyrennees with their snow-capped peaks changing colour in the evening sky.

I am very lucky to have found this corner of Spain.

I hope I am able to help you see what life in Spain is like and give you some tips if you are thinking of buying here. Please email me any questions to: Spain@OverseasGuidesCompany.com

Sally Veall
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Important checks before you buy

So…after much searching, you have decided on the Spanish property you want to buy. What now? Well, before signing anything there are some massively important checks that that you and your lawyer should have a look at.

The Escritura Publica is the registered title deed of the property. It is entered in the Registro de la Propiedad or Property Registry and is the only guarantee of title in Spain. It contains a description of the property, the details of the owner and any mortgages or legal claims that exist against the property. This document is important because it tells you if the seller is the legal owner of the property being sold.

The nota simple contains further details of any mortgages or other encumbrances or charges against the property and is also available from the Registry. The owner’s names on the Nota Simple should match those on the Escritura. It shows the latest recorded details of any charges - in Spain debts, charges or court orders may be registered against the property rather than the person: these include hipotecas (mortgages), censos (ground rent or leasehold payments), usufructos (interests in the property), limitaciones (restrictions on use), multas (fines), cláusulas resolutorias (determinations, i.e. decisions about the future of the property), or embargos (court orders for distraint or seizure).

It may be that there are some unpaid taxes not yet recorded at the Registro, so your lawyer should also check with the relevant authorities, including Hacienda (Ministry of Finance), the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), and the Recaudación Provincial (Provincial Rates Office), that these have been paid.

The notary must obtain a new nota simple on the day that the sale documents are signed (when the contract is effected) in order to confirm that the ownership and charge details have not changed since the last enquiry.

Every property sale must also quote the Referencia Catastral of the property in question. The Catastro concentrates on the location, physical description and boundaries of the property. While the Property Registry focuses almost exclusively on ownership and title, the Catastro is concerned with property valuation.

These systems do not have any connection with one another, which is an irritation with the Spanish system. In fact, it is common to find that the catastral description of a property differs greatly from the one in the Property Registry. You need to request the actual certificate from the Catastro with a full description of the property. The certificate is in two parts, one being a description of the property and the other being either a plan or an aerial photograph. These details will give you a better understanding of the boundaries of the property and size and description of the property.

For instance, when a house is completed on the land, the Catastro or Council Tax authority should be informed. There are areas in Spain (for example Andalucía and Murcia) in which the notary sends the deeds to the Catastro to inform them about the modification, but this does not happen countrywide. This means that often the catastral records are out of date and inaccurate. When you realise that the Catastral system is used to work out the taxable level on each property you will understand why this is sometimes not updated. Tax avoidance is considered something of a national past-time in Spain and many property owners avoid updating their Catastral details for fear of having to pay more tax. Because the updating of the Catastro was always on a voluntary basis in the greater part of the country this is an ongoing problem.

My advice? Use a good lawyer and make sure that this is all in agreement and correct before even thinking of signing anything. There may well come a day that Spain falls into line with the rest of the EU in terms of property regulations and the last thing you need is a problem further down the line.

The other thing to do before purchasing a resale Spanish property is to check out the lmpuesto sobre Bienes lnmuebles or lBI, which is the municipal property tax. Ideally, you should be able to see the IBI receipts for the last five years. Further back doesn’t really concern you as that is the limit of liablity for unpaid back taxes attached to the property. A new property bought from a developer will not have an IBI receipt – it is then your responsibility to register the property for this tax.

I know, I know – it all sounds very difficult…actually, if you are in the hands of a really good lawyer who understands Spanish property law – and English incidentally – it will all fly by. The problems in Spain have arisen because people have failed to take legal advice – please don’t be one of them!

Kim Brown
http://www.SpainBuyingGuide.com