Thursday 24 February 2011

Viva las Tapas!!

Anyone who has visited Spain will know about TAPAS. Tapas are to Spain what pasta is to Italy – quintessentially part of Spanish cuisine. Tapas however vary considerably from region to region as it is necessary to use fresh, local ingredients to produce good tapas. The origin of tapas is cloudy and it is believed they came from Andalusia in the south. The following story might be true: King Alfonso X, The Wise, (1252 -1284), was ill and needed to take small mouthfuls of food with wine between meals. Once he had recovered he wisely passed a decree stating that no tavern in Castille should serve wine unless there was food to accompany it. This was to prevent the poor of the land drinking alcohol on an empty stomach because they could ill afford a nourishing meal.

Another story relating to King Alfonso and the possible origin of tapas, was that he was travelling with his retinue when they came to Cadiz situated by the sea and well known for its high winds. The servant presenting the king with his glass of sherry, covered the glass with a slice of ham to prevent the sand from entering the king's glass. The word “tapa” literally means “cover” or “lid”. Medieval Spanish inns were no doubt dusty places, so “tapas” would have been a useful method of keeping the sherry or alcohol untainted. Many tapas are rather salty and this might have been to get the clients to drink more alcohol.

Whatever the true origin of these delightful morsels, they are to be found throughout Spain using whatever nature and agriculture has to offer in each area. For example, on the coasts, tapas are made mainly from fish and shellfish, whereas inland, they consist of ham or cheese. In Galicia they are called “pintxos” and elsewhere in the north, “alifara”. Unfortunately these days, “tapas” are often just basic items fried in oil with added salt, catering to the mass market and tourism.

When you come to live in Spain you have the opportunity to seek out “real” tapas, to try food combinations that you might never have though of, and to enjoy the social element of a good tapas bar. In a way, they are a bit like pubs in the UK used to be – a long bar, very few tables & chairs, people standing engaging in much conversation while drinking and consuming their tapas. Some modern tapas bars are more like restaurants where you are served at tables – these are perhaps not as authentic as their narrow bar cousins, but the food and wine can be just as good. I think the best tapas are still to be found in Andalusia, with Galician specialities a close second. Major cities like Madrid and Barcelona also have excellent tapas bars, but they are not usually found in the main tourist areas.

Near to where I live is the pleasant seaside town of Palamòs, which welcomes cruise ships and has an excellent local hospital. The old town, uphill from the port, is quite small but pretty with narrow streets of ancient stone buildings, many of which have become shops and bars. On Saturday, I was invited by friends to join them in Palamòs at a tapas bar which had recently opened. To my delight it is of the traditional style, long bar groaning with a myriad of different tapas to choose from, full of noisy and happy clients, TV showing a Barça football match, excellent beers and wines – plus between 9.00 pm & 10.00 pm, waiters emerging from the small kitchen handing out freshly made hot tapas to the assembled throng, rather as if you were at a cocktail party. I have to say the quality and variety of the tapas they serve are fantastic. How, you may wonder, do they know the amount each customer has consumed? Indeed there is a traditional and clever system...small cold tapas are all served with a cocktail stick in the centre, so they merely count up the number of cocktail sticks you end up with. Other tapas come in small, different shaped dishes, so you pile them up with the cocktail sticks and the staff recognise what you have eaten by the shape of the dish. As to the alcohol imbibed, some bars keep a running tab for each person, others – like the one in Palamòs – rely on the honesty of their clientèle! We were 5 people, the guys had 3 large & 3 small beers, there was a bottle of red wine, one lady had 2 glasses of white wine & another a glass of cava. Together with the tapas eaten, the entire bill was just under 60€!! Wonderful value, wonderful tapas.

I would suggest that you seek out such a bar when you are next in Spain. You may have to ask local people for recommendations, but it is well worth it and don't be afraid to try something you don't recognise as you may well have found what will become your favourite “tapas”!

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

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