During the Franco dictatorship, Carnaval was banned, so after his death people once again took to the streets to carry on a centuries-old tradition, each region adding its own mark to the celebrations. Interestingly, the Carnaval in both Madrid and Barcelona is quite restrained compared to cities like Sitges and Cadiz. The theory about the origin of Carnaval is that it literally means “farewell to the flesh” (Carne = meat and valle = farewell) which in more religious times was the case as people observed Lent rigorously. Nowadays schools are closed for the event and it is a “fiesta” for all to enjoy, some, it must be said, rather too much as anything goes during Carnaval. A “cohete” (rocket) signals the start of the festival in some towns, in others it could be the deafening sound of a blunderbuss, made louder by the narrowness of the streets and the sound bouncing off the buildings. Whichever method is used, you will not be allowed to sleep late that morning and will be awakened by brass bands and loud bangs quite early, usually around 8.00 am.
Later in the day, there will be a wonderful procession of floats, dancers, musicians and people dressed in impressive and colourful costumes, each group representing a theme. Last year, the most outstanding group were “the flies” whose costumes were truly amazing, we also had “Elvis”, Aztecs, gangsters and molls among a host of other creative ideas. A lot of time and immense effort go into the making of each costume and the decoration of the floats. Everyone, from elderly grandparents to their grandchildren, even in prams, can take part and it is amusing to see how the babies are dressed according to which theme their parents belong. One of the best a few years' ago were red Indians and all the children, including tiny babies were dressed accordingly, with feathers and war paint.
Noise is a vital element in the Carnaval, as are bright colours and dancing. I am fortunate in that I can watch the procession from my terrace, so the full spectacle passes by and the sound volume is slightly reduced. I usually invite friends to join me and we watch with wine flowing and tapas which I have learned to make since moving to Spain. If it is cold, we can “pop”inside for a few minutes to warm up and then return to watch the next float. Yes, it is loud and brash, but also tremendous fun, so if you are thinking of a trip to Spain, it is a good time to visit.
The floats and procession visit different towns within a vicinity over 3 days, so you can catch the show again if you missed part of it the first time. It usually starts after dark on the first night, but on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon there is an earlier parade for small children to enjoy.
On Shrove Tuesday festivities come to an end with a peculiar ceremony – the burying of the sardine ( le entierro de la sardine). One of the stories relating to its origin is that in the 17th Century, King Charles III of Spain decided to celebrate the end of Carnival with his people, commoners. A picnic in the country was arranged and sardines and wine were to offered to everyone. It was unusually hot that day and eventually the sardines began to smell extremely unpleasant. The only way to get rid of the smell was to bury the sardines! The people apparently wept as now there was no free food and ahead of them were the lean days of Lent. In towns near the sea, the sardine is buried, or cremated and its ashes taken out to be scattered over the water. Elsewhere it is burned. It is a strange tradition but so are many customs we still practise in whichever country we may live. Afterwards, you can eat sardines barbecued on large grills set up in squares and may be offered a free chocolate drink to sweeten the start of Lent.
Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/
Later in the day, there will be a wonderful procession of floats, dancers, musicians and people dressed in impressive and colourful costumes, each group representing a theme. Last year, the most outstanding group were “the flies” whose costumes were truly amazing, we also had “Elvis”, Aztecs, gangsters and molls among a host of other creative ideas. A lot of time and immense effort go into the making of each costume and the decoration of the floats. Everyone, from elderly grandparents to their grandchildren, even in prams, can take part and it is amusing to see how the babies are dressed according to which theme their parents belong. One of the best a few years' ago were red Indians and all the children, including tiny babies were dressed accordingly, with feathers and war paint.
Noise is a vital element in the Carnaval, as are bright colours and dancing. I am fortunate in that I can watch the procession from my terrace, so the full spectacle passes by and the sound volume is slightly reduced. I usually invite friends to join me and we watch with wine flowing and tapas which I have learned to make since moving to Spain. If it is cold, we can “pop”inside for a few minutes to warm up and then return to watch the next float. Yes, it is loud and brash, but also tremendous fun, so if you are thinking of a trip to Spain, it is a good time to visit.
The floats and procession visit different towns within a vicinity over 3 days, so you can catch the show again if you missed part of it the first time. It usually starts after dark on the first night, but on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon there is an earlier parade for small children to enjoy.
On Shrove Tuesday festivities come to an end with a peculiar ceremony – the burying of the sardine ( le entierro de la sardine). One of the stories relating to its origin is that in the 17th Century, King Charles III of Spain decided to celebrate the end of Carnival with his people, commoners. A picnic in the country was arranged and sardines and wine were to offered to everyone. It was unusually hot that day and eventually the sardines began to smell extremely unpleasant. The only way to get rid of the smell was to bury the sardines! The people apparently wept as now there was no free food and ahead of them were the lean days of Lent. In towns near the sea, the sardine is buried, or cremated and its ashes taken out to be scattered over the water. Elsewhere it is burned. It is a strange tradition but so are many customs we still practise in whichever country we may live. Afterwards, you can eat sardines barbecued on large grills set up in squares and may be offered a free chocolate drink to sweeten the start of Lent.
Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/
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