Carnival and burying the sardine...

The end of February into March is Carnival (Carnaval) Season in Spain. Time to celebrate the coming of spring, longer evenings and warmer days. Time to put aside for a short while the fact that it may still be quite chilly and most evenings are spent indoors, time to go out onto the streets and have fun before the rigours of Lent.

During the Franco dictatorship, Carnaval was banned, so after his death people once again took to the streets to carry on a centuries-old tradition, each region adding its own mark to the celebrations. Interestingly, the Carnaval in both Madrid and Barcelona is quite restrained compared to cities like Sitges and Cadiz. The theory about the origin of Carnaval is that it literally means “farewell to the flesh” (Carne = meat and valle = farewell) which in more religious times was the case as people observed Lent rigorously. Nowadays schools are closed for the event and it is a “fiesta” for all to enjoy, some, it must be said, rather too much as anything goes during Carnaval. A “cohete” (rocket) signals the start of the festival in some towns, in others it could be the deafening sound of a blunderbuss, made louder by the narrowness of the streets and the sound bouncing off the buildings. Whichever method is used, you will not be allowed to sleep late that morning and will be awakened by brass bands and loud bangs quite early, usually around 8.00 am.

Later in the day, there will be a wonderful procession of floats, dancers, musicians and people dressed in impressive and colourful costumes, each group representing a theme. Last year, the most outstanding group were “the flies” whose costumes were truly amazing, we also had “Elvis”, Aztecs, gangsters and molls among a host of other creative ideas. A lot of time and immense effort go into the making of each costume and the decoration of the floats. Everyone, from elderly grandparents to their grandchildren, even in prams, can take part and it is amusing to see how the babies are dressed according to which theme their parents belong. One of the best a few years' ago were red Indians and all the children, including tiny babies were dressed accordingly, with feathers and war paint.

Noise is a vital element in the Carnaval, as are bright colours and dancing. I am fortunate in that I can watch the procession from my terrace, so the full spectacle passes by and the sound volume is slightly reduced. I usually invite friends to join me and we watch with wine flowing and tapas which I have learned to make since moving to Spain. If it is cold, we can “pop”inside for a few minutes to warm up and then return to watch the next float. Yes, it is loud and brash, but also tremendous fun, so if you are thinking of a trip to Spain, it is a good time to visit.

The floats and procession visit different towns within a vicinity over 3 days, so you can catch the show again if you missed part of it the first time. It usually starts after dark on the first night, but on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon there is an earlier parade for small children to enjoy.

On Shrove Tuesday festivities come to an end with a peculiar ceremony – the burying of the sardine ( le entierro de la sardine). One of the stories relating to its origin is that in the 17th Century, King Charles III of Spain decided to celebrate the end of Carnival with his people, commoners. A picnic in the country was arranged and sardines and wine were to offered to everyone. It was unusually hot that day and eventually the sardines began to smell extremely unpleasant. The only way to get rid of the smell was to bury the sardines! The people apparently wept as now there was no free food and ahead of them were the lean days of Lent. In towns near the sea, the sardine is buried, or cremated and its ashes taken out to be scattered over the water. Elsewhere it is burned. It is a strange tradition but so are many customs we still practise in whichever country we may live. Afterwards, you can eat sardines barbecued on large grills set up in squares and may be offered a free chocolate drink to sweeten the start of Lent.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company

http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Driving on the right side

I don't know about you, but I feel nervous about driving in a foreign country – at least for the first few hours or sometimes for a day or so. Well, after 15 years' away, the UK is a “foreign” country for me and so I try to avoid driving when I am there and trust that my family and friends will be kind enough to transport me or I use public transport. There are so many signs on English roads, variable speed limits, speed cameras, warnings not to do this or that and of course, a lot of traffic in all but rural areas and apart from the ubiquitous yellow lines, there are now red lines (urban clear-ways, I think).

I cannot pretend that there is no traffic in Spain, but once you get used to driving on the right, it is generally a more pleasant experience. Major cities and conurbations do attract a lot of cars, lorries & motorcycles but once away from these centres, the main roads are good with smoothly flowing traffic, the motorways (autopistas) are excellent, though you will have to pay to use them, the “B” roads are also good, with few distractions. Roundabouts are used more here than traffic lights out of the town centres and there are inevitably speed cameras, but nowhere as many nor so closely packed as in the UK. In Catalunya the drivers are mostly courteous and it is obligatory to stop at pedestrian crossings if someone wishes to cross, which makes walking much safer. Sometimes, I have to admit, the crossings are too close to each other, which can delay the traffic, but as I am a pedestrian as well as driver, I am happy to be able to cross the road conveniently.

Road near Madrid

If you come to live in Spain from any EU country, you may keep your existing driving licence until it expires, or if you incur any points for traffic “crimes”, you will have to change your licence to a Spanish one. The process for changing it is relatively simple. You will need to go to your Provincial Traffic Headquarters, in my case in the city of Girona and take with you your passport, NIE number (foreigners identity number), your old licence, 2 recent photos, a written declaration that the driver has not been suspended or banned from driving plus another stating that the driver does not hold a similar licence in another country. Your new licence will be sent by post.

In Spain, licences need regular renewal. They are valid for 10 years if you are under 45, 5 years between 45 & 70, and just 2 years after 70, when you are required to bring a medical certificate for each renewal. As in the UK there is a points system for traffic offences, starting with a credit of 12 points.

One things that seems to be a universal problem is parking! Most small towns provide free car parking but this is usually situated some distance from the centre. It is inevitably difficult to park anywhere on market and fiesta days, during the high summer season and at Easter, however a little exploration down side streets where you see just white lines, may prove worthwhile, as this is also free parking. Blue lines mean you must pay at a meter. One thing I have discovered is that the space provided for each vehicle tends to be narrower than in the UK..I eventually gave in & bought a smaller car which has proved to be a very wise decision.

Anyway, wherever you are, happy motoring!

Sally

Tha Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com

Autumn Leaves and walks by the sea - Bliss

Autumn, according to the poet John Keats, is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness and this is also true here in Catalunya, northeast Spain. The days are still warm but there is a chill at night and early morning, mists hover over valleys and many trees are now bearing their fruit. It is the step between the long hot summer and the winter months ahead, lulling us back into the warmth of our homes. Yes, here we have all the seasons.

Autumn brings us golden and red leaves which start falling, flocks of starlings on their way south...I reckon each evening there are about 300 perched on roof tops, a nearby crane and in the treetops which I look out at from my office. It is an amazing sight. Autumn also brings with it more unpleasant things, coughs and colds, flu season and central heating. Thankfully, the National Health Service here is available to rescue us. Each region of Spain runs its own health service and the system in Catalunya is excellent. I had my free flu jab yesterday, available to those over 60, people with respiratory and lung problems and also to children at risk. For the rest, there is a small cost to have the vaccine. Most towns and large villages have a medical centre known as the CAP (Centre de Attenció Primària) which is like a large clinic with GPs and other front line medical staff plus an emergency department which is open day and night.Their job is to treat your condition if they can or to refer you to the local hospital or specialist if they can’t.

That brings me to the local hospital, in my case located in a pretty seaside town called Palamós. Unfortunately, I have got to know this place rather well during the time I have lived here and once you get used to the system (which isn’t particularly cosy nor blessed with a great bedside manner), you will find an excellent medical service with totally up-to-date X-ray, scanners and other necessary medical aides. Their job is to cure you.

CAP PALAFRUGELL
(local health centre)

Of course autumn brings other activities too. Walks by the sea bathed in the lowering sunlight, jazz evenings in courtyards, sitting in local restaurants with a group of friends bemoaning the fact we can no longer sit outside at night, but warm and comfortable in the rustic interiors. And let's not forget the tramuntana wind which comes from the Pyrennees and blows hard with a distinct chill for 3 days, it's dryness taking humidity out of the air.

Yes, autumn here on the Costa Brava is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness.

Please contact me if you have any questions about life on the Costa Brava.

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
Visit my main website at: http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/