Well, it is mushroom season in Catalunya, North Eastern Spain. Many small villages and larger towns hold mushroom festivals here, where you are drawn into this secret world of fungi. They lay out every type of mushroom you can imagine and carefully signal which are edible are which are likely to cause illness and even death if eaten. Then there are the tastings.."rossynols" are my favourite, a deep yellow with long fine stalks. Also there are "ceps", the most expensive, selling at 50-100€ a kilo, with a deep mushroom colour and intense mushroom flavour.
Tastings are not confined to local festivals. Many restaurants have special menus using the various types of mushroom and it is definitely worth a visit to one or more as somehow the local chefs manage to make an "ordinary fungus" taste like nectar from the gods. In fact, Catalunya is home to many culinary delights, one of the most famous restaurants in the world, El Bulli, is situated just across from the French border in Cadaques. Sadly, the owner, Ferran Adria, has decided to close it for two years and is taking time out to reinvent his cuisine and is currently working in Barcelona.
You don't need to spend a fortune, however, to eat well here. I frequently go out with friends for lunch and we are served a three-colour meal for 10 – 14€ per person, usually including a good local wine, water and bread. It costs more in the evenings – I have never really understood why, except that the lunchtime clientèle includes workmen and in the evenings, the restaurants imagine that they have a different clientèle, which is not usually the case, except that the workmen are now dressed for dinner. We tend to enjoy our lunches and entertain at home in the evenings, except of course on special occasions when throwing caution to the wind, we head for one of the "better" restaurants and usually are truly favourably surprised at the quality and service we receive for around 30-40€ a head.
My local restaurant which has a delightful outside space in a semi-private garden (which I overlook!!), serves an excellent lunchtime meal for 12€ all in. They have a vast menu of starters and a smaller but excellent choice of main courses and most of the "postres" (deserts) are home made. The wine is excellent too. My friends and I have enjoyed many a happy few hours there, in the shade of the garden in hot summer and if we decide to splash out on a second bottle of wine, we are charged only about 7€. One does not, of course, spend every day having lunch in such delightful places. There is a very active U3A here on the Costa Brava which invites one to visit interesting localities … but more of this in my next Blog.
Meanwhile, if you are anywhere near a mushroom festival, (in the UK, France, Italy or Spain) I urge you go along, increase your joy and knowledge by discovering one of nature's best kept secrets.
Sally Veall
The Overseas Guides Company
Go to the main website at: http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/
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