Feasts, Baracas and the simple life...

Last Wednesday was FIESTA time here (so was last Monday, but that was Constitution Day, Wednesday was religious, celebrating the Immaculate Conception). Unexpectedly, I was invited by local friends to join them at their “Baraca” for lunch. Over the time I have lived here, I have tried to determine the true meaning of “Baraca” as this is not the first time I have been invited to such a location. Originally, it seems, the word “baraca” meant a hunting lodge, situated outside a village or town, where men would meet to enjoy the cooking and savouring of the game they had caught. Also, much drinking of locally brewed beer and wine carried on and no doubt they told many ribald jokes, entirely unsuitable for ladies who were not present at these festivities.



These days things have changed. A “baraca” is now the term for a basic building, out of town, on an allotment, in the countryside or anywhere in which the family get together for fiestas, birthdays or any occasion to be celebrated. It must be said that some “baracas” are rather grandiose affairs, with electricity, gas, loos and even bedrooms and bathrooms. Others, like the one I visited on Wednesday are simple constructions, in this case, 2 rooms at one end of a large allotment, one with a an open fire on which our sausages were cooked, the other without heating or electricity where we sat around a large table groaning with food brought in from my hosts' home. The weather was particularly kind that day, the temperature reaching 16º at its height and the sun pouring into our eating area – just as well, or it would have been very very cold in there! The delicious lunch comprised an apple & tuna salad, numerous and varied types of sausage and chorizo, avocado, a wonderful bread with the typical Spanish tomato spread on it, pork patties fried in breadcrumbs (taught to my hostess by her German friends), and best of all for my taste, a very hot and spicy home-made Romesco sauce (tomatoes, mayonnaise, herbs, chili and spices). The remains are currently in my fridge! Plenty of fresh fruit for dessert and a special cake with almonds and marzipan which is eaten at this time of the year. This was indeed a true feast.

The sun was still shining into the baraca after we had washed up and stored the plates, so we sat down to a game of dominoes, followed by a Spanish card game I had to learn called “La Brisa” which was great fun and I seemed to have beginners' luck as I won each time! It occurred to me that, fundamentally, we are all much the same, wherever we live and whatever language we speak – a good meal with family and friends, a game of cards, laughter is to be enjoyed anywhere, even in a basic shed with a tin roof lit by the sun on a Wednesday in December. Perhaps in these days of ultra consumerism, we should try to spend more time enjoying the simpler things and remember that the secret of such enjoyment is sharing whatever we have with those we love.

On Thursday, at last, the shops began to decorate their windows in a Christmas style. Unlike in the UK, they generally wait until after 8 December (Immaculate Conception) to bring out the trees, baubles and glitter, but it is not overdone here in any way, Each town and village has Christmas lights but there is not that frantic pre-Christmas bustle in Spain. Traditionally, the children do not get their presents until 6 January (Tres Reis - 3 kings), but with the pressure of TV advertising and customs learnt from immigrants, some do now receive a present on Christmas Eve. Christmas Day is very much a family day here as it is in the UK, and they celebrate the 26th December too, St. Estephan (St Stephen's Day). Christmas Carols, roasted chestnuts and sweet potatoes are an essential part of Christmas in Catalunya as in other parts of Spain and I really have the feeling that it is still a religious-cum-family celebration here, not totally overwhelmed by commercialisation, at least for the time being.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

Spanish Laws...are they loco?

Every country has its peculiarities, especially legal ones. Spain has a cluster all of its own, so it is vitally important that you check and if necessary, re-check laws that may affect you if you come to live here permanently or just own a second home somewhere on the Spanish peninsular.

This week, a woman from Galicia, north-west Spain, has legally registered herself as the owner of the SUN. This was done under Spanish Law at a notary's office. She now intends to “charge” us all for the use of the SUN and says she will give the larger part of her new-found income to the government to help with the current economic crisis, some to stall the reduction of pensions and 10% she will keep for herself. Now..just imagine if she “charged” us all a nominal 1€ a month: that would 40,000,000€ each and every 4 weeks rolling into her coffers. Any government would be happy to have a large part of that income without having to do anything for it.

This brings me to yet another thought: that all governments are constantly finding ways of increasing their income for virtually no effort on their part which, I suspect, is why the government of Catalunya has recently passed a law concerning everyone who wishes to rent out a property for 3 months or less, i.e. to tourists. It is now necessary to obtain a licence to rent out your property for tourism and you need to go in person to the Ajuntament (Town Hall) to obtain it. Fees and requirements have been left up to each individual Ajunatment. The property owner will also be responsible for any problems caused by their holiday-let tenants and fines for failing to obtain the licence are expected to be very high.

You should not be put off the idea of renting out your property as it can still be very lucrative, especially from mid-June to mid-September. I suspect that landlords will try to put up their rental prices to cover the extra costs involved in getting the licence, but this may not be wise just at the moment when money is tight and the holiday rental market is extremely competitive. Good properties, though, near beaches or other leisure attractions always find holidaymakers to fill them.

I have a pretty 2 bedroom apartment in lovely seaside town to the south of Girona. Until now, I have let it out on a long-term rental but since my last tenants left without paying several months' rent, I will relaunch it for holiday lets from next Easter. I will now have to negotiate the new licence law in that particular town, so will be able to tell you more about what it involves as time goes by. I already have the “Cèdula d'Habitabilitat”, a certificate of habitability from the Generalitat of Catalunya (Catalan Government), which you need this for either long or short term lets. It is one of the “good” requirements as you only receive it once the property has been declared in good order and fit for habitation, which is necessary for everyone's peace of mind.

It is also possible that this new “Law” may not in fact be implemented. There were elections on Sunday for the Generalitat (government of Catalunya) and the balance of power has swung away from the ruling party. It may well be that, with hindsight, they decide that this licensing law will be detrimental to the tourist industry here and therefore “put it to one side”. Is that not Loco?

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

The joys of Spanish trains

I went to Barcelona on Friday to meet a friend for lunch, visit a wholesale jewellery company and to collect my new glasses. All this in 4.5 hours. I am lucky as every time I go there the sun shines and as I walk the streets of this lovely, vibrant city, the sun catches a Gothic window, the side of a contemporary office block, a statue or shop front and lights them up like Christmas tree lights.

Being the capital city of Catalunya, Barcelona is steeped in history, old and not so old, as the Summer Olympic Games were held there in 1992 and an entirely new “Olympic village” was constructed by the sea. That was probably the year in which the World discovered Barcelona, now one of Europe's top tourist destinations.

For those of us who live within reach of the city, it is much more than just a sightseeing destination, as Barcelona can happily compete with London or Paris for wonderful shops, great little restaurants, a fantastic daily covered market (La Boqueria), opera, concerts and musicals. It is about a 90 min drive from where I live but I usually take the train. The MD (media distancia) fast train goes from Figueres near the French border right to the heart of Barcelona and there are several stations on the way where we can board. I usually drive 35 minutes to Caldes de Malavella which lies to the south and so nearer to my destination. Others catch the train at Flaça which is a shorter run but the train journey is rather longer. RENFE is the Spanish Rail Network. The MD trains are clean, modern and fast. Generally speaking trains arrive according to the timetable but the stations vary with regard to comfort. There is usually free parking by the station, so I leave the car there not worried about how much the parking will cost if I delay my return by another hour. The station at Caldes has recently been renovated externally and internally and is actually a beautiful building with wonderful Art Nouveau tiles in the foyer. Of course you can get to Barcelona by train from all directions and with equally good services. The AVE trains are hi-tec, super fast long distance trains, from Madrid to Barcelona taking just 2hrs 30 minutes.

When I go over to the UK and travel by train, I am truly shocked at the ticket prices. Here in Spain, train travel is much cheaper for everyone. There are various cards one can buy which give large discounts, one especially good one, the DORADA (gold) card, is for people over 60 and gives a 40% discount on MD trains & 25%-40% on AVE trains. The DORADA card is purchased annually at a current cost of 5.10€ !!

So on Friday, I took the train to the centre of Barcelona, the Passieg de Gracia, where I met my friend & we went to the jewellery company she works for. I couldn't resist a pair of earrings sold to me at cost price. We then collected my new glasses (much cheaper in Barcelona than in the smaller towns) and set off for lunch. There is such an amazing choice of eateries, but we decided to return to one of our favourites, on the Passeig de Gracia itself, so near the train station. Housed on the first floor above a good Tapas bar, is Restaurant Citrus, a contemporary space where one is never too close to anyone else. They do not have a Menù del Dia, but the prices of the dishes are reasonable and the cuisine which is modern catalan, is excellent. Drinks are a bit pricey, but then you are right in one of the smartest parts of Barcelona. Just time to savour my lunch before strolling to the station and a one hour train journey back to Caldes. I was home by 6.25 pm having had a great day out.

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company

http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Getting yourself involved when in Spain

I was sitting in the main square of my town, enjoying a “cortado”, (small strong coffee with a dash of milk), when a friend, in the company of 2 others passed by. They joined me and I discovered that the couple had recently bought a house in a particularly pretty village nearby. They are really excited about their new home and are looking forward to retiring there in a couple of years' time. We chatted and they seem to have thought about most things related to moving to another country and indeed living full time away from their homeland, but I wondered to myself if they as yet realise that the winter here in Catalunya can be long and cold or mild and damp or very pleasant – one just doesn't know. Might they feel a little isolated in their pretty village?

Next time I see them I shall tell them about the U3A Costa Brava which is an excellent and very active organisation of which I am a member. The U3A began in Toulouse, France, in 1972 as a summer school for retired people, based around the university. In the 1980s the idea had developed into an association based on self -help and run by the members themselves in various towns and cities. Today the U3A is present in most countries, the latest association having been formed in Hong Kong.

Here on the Costa Brava we are very fortunate to have a U3A group providing around 40 different activities, some weekly, others monthly. Of course, you can't join everything, but there is such a wide variety of interests, you are bound to want to join several of them. The only requirements to join are that you are over 50 and speak English, so our members are not confined to British ex-pats as we have Dutch, German, French, American, Japanese & South American members too. Annual membership is currently 14€ per person.

One of my favourite is the Local Interest group, which is about discovering more of the area in which we live. Members arrange visits to interesting and sometimes unusual places and always with a good lunch afterwards in a local restaurant. In fact, I am involved with a friend in leading the group this month to the Civil War Museum in La Jonquera, the main border town with France. We will have an English-speaking guide and will learn more about the Spanish Civil War and its effects on the local population, which suffered very badly. I think it is necessary to learn these things to better understand the people in whose land we now reside.

I also belong to one of the many different walking groups, petanca, gardening and family history groups. I hope that the couple I met the other day will join the association as apart from anything else, the U3A is a social organisation, so they would feel less isolated and lunch is always on the agenda after the activity if you choose to join others at the restaurant.

Interesting activities are not solely confined to the U3A however. You can learn Catalan and Spanish (very advisable to learn one if you are planning to live here!), join a gym, go to Pilates and yoga classes, play golf and tennis, learn to dance Sevilliana, Flamenco or Sardanes, the list is endless.

At the weekends, I really enjoy going to antique and second-hand street markets or to a car boot sale which is held every weekend further up the coast towards France. It is amazing what you can find as people of all nationalities take stalls and sell a vast variety of items they no longer need. I must do the same one of these days as I have boxes of stuff that I no longer use and someone else could employ. My nearest market is in the beautiful town of Pals on Saturday mornings, located in a circular park.... I need to sort out the items, load my car & go, but Saturdays are so busy with other things!

Until next time

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Guess the amount of documents we needed!

I went with a friend to Girona the other day. Girona is the capital city of my corner of Catalunya and home to all the government and administrative offices as well as having a wonderful old town with cobbled streets, a cathedral, Arab baths, parks and an archaeological walk around what is left of the ramparts.Girona is largely unspoilt by tourism and is a discreet city often overlooked by travellers heading for the bright lights of Barcelona, about 90kms to the south. Straddling the banks of the River Ter, the brightly painted old houses hang over the water as sentinels of times gone by. The old town is a maze of alleyways and little squares, each keeping its own secret – perhaps a cafe in the cellar, perhaps a shop frontage that has withstood the ravages of centuries past. On the other side of the river is the “new” town, part of it very much of the 18th Century, with the lovely arched Plaça de Independcia teeming with restaurants and tapas bars. Not too far away is the covered market, open every morning. Girona is also a cultural city, with well presented museums and art centres as well as a strong musical tradition. After many visits, my friend and I have only touched the surface of this intriguing city .

Our trip was not for pleasure really as my friend decided she wanted to change her UK driving licence to a Spanish one and since her knowledge of both Castilian (Spanish) and Catalan is poor, she asked me to tag along as interpreter. Navigating ones way through Spanish bureaucracy requires extreme patience and fortitude. In fact, if you have an EU driving licence, you do not have to change it to a Spanish one, but you should register it with the traffic authority. My friend decided that she wanted to change hers, so we found ourselves at the offices of the Traffic Department.

It is vital before you go to any of the government agencies that you check..and recheck... what paperwork you need to present, otherwise you will have made a wasted journey, stood in a queue for ages and felt utterly frustrated. In the case of my friend and her driving licence, she needed to show:

• Proof of identity (passport original and copy)
• Proof of residence (Certificate of Registration in the Central Aliens Register - the NIE number (foreigners identification number))
• Valid driving licence to be exchanged (original and copy)
• Two recent photographs (32 by 25 mm)
• Declaration in writing stating that the applicant has not been banned or suspended from driving
• Declaration in writing stating that the applicant does not hold another driving licence of the same class in another country
  

Her new licence will arrive by post & will be credit card size. I should mention we were lucky that day as the queue was short and we were dealt with by a very pleasant and helpful lady who insisted on explaining everything to us twice as she somehow worked out we were foreigners!
Business done, we headed for Girona old town for lunch. We settled on a restaurant called Mimolet, near the cathedral, not the cheapest but which serves very good bar food. The weather was kind that day, so we sat outside on the terraza enjoying a well earned glass of Cava – Catalunya's answer to champagne and very good it is too!

It was time to head home, but not before we agreed to come back to Girona sooner rather than later to go window shopping (at least that is what my friend said) and sit at a cafe on the Rambla Llibertat watching the world go by, perhaps visit an Art Exhibition or come back on a Saturday when there is a huge market (also on Tuesdays) and a flower market on the Rambla. It is just a question of finding the time.........

Sally Veall
The Overseas Guides Company
Have you visited the main website yet? http://www.spainbuyingguide.com

Have you ever been to a mushroom festival?

Do you like mushrooms? I adore mushrooms – not the closed-cap variety available all year in supermarkets – no, real mushrooms, hidden in the woods in secret places, which when found, are carefully picked, carried gingerly back home and then cooked in virgin olive oil, garlic and parsley. Absolute heaven!

Well, it is mushroom season in Catalunya, North Eastern Spain. Many small villages and larger towns hold mushroom festivals here, where you are drawn into this secret world of fungi. They lay out every type of mushroom you can imagine and carefully signal which are edible are which are likely to cause illness and even death if eaten. Then there are the tastings.."rossynols" are my favourite, a deep yellow with long fine stalks. Also there are "ceps", the most expensive, selling at 50-100€ a kilo, with a deep mushroom colour and intense mushroom flavour.

Tastings are not confined to local festivals. Many restaurants have special menus using the various types of mushroom and it is definitely worth a visit to one or more as somehow the local chefs manage to make an "ordinary fungus" taste like nectar from the gods. In fact, Catalunya is home to many culinary delights, one of the most famous restaurants in the world, El Bulli, is situated just across from the French border in Cadaques. Sadly, the owner, Ferran Adria, has decided to close it for two years and is taking time out to reinvent his cuisine and is currently working in Barcelona.

You don't need to spend a fortune, however, to eat well here. I frequently go out with friends for lunch and we are served a three-colour meal for 10 – 14€ per person, usually including a good local wine, water and bread. It costs more in the evenings – I have never really understood why, except that the lunchtime clientèle includes workmen and in the evenings, the restaurants imagine that they have a different clientèle, which is not usually the case, except that the workmen are now dressed for dinner. We tend to enjoy our lunches and entertain at home in the evenings, except of course on special occasions when throwing caution to the wind, we head for one of the "better" restaurants and usually are truly favourably surprised at the quality and service we receive for around 30-40€ a head.

My local restaurant which has a delightful outside space in a semi-private garden (which I overlook!!), serves an excellent lunchtime meal for 12€ all in. They have a vast menu of starters and a smaller but excellent choice of main courses and most of the "postres" (deserts) are home made. The wine is excellent too. My friends and I have enjoyed many a happy few hours there, in the shade of the garden in hot summer and if we decide to splash out on a second bottle of wine, we are charged only about 7€. One does not, of course, spend every day having lunch in such delightful places. There is a very active U3A here on the Costa Brava which invites one to visit interesting localities … but more of this in my next Blog.

Meanwhile, if you are anywhere near a mushroom festival, (in the UK, France, Italy or Spain) I urge you go along, increase your joy and knowledge by discovering one of nature's best kept secrets.

Sally Veall
The Overseas Guides Company
Go to the main website at: http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Autumn Leaves and walks by the sea - Bliss

Autumn, according to the poet John Keats, is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness and this is also true here in Catalunya, northeast Spain. The days are still warm but there is a chill at night and early morning, mists hover over valleys and many trees are now bearing their fruit. It is the step between the long hot summer and the winter months ahead, lulling us back into the warmth of our homes. Yes, here we have all the seasons.

Autumn brings us golden and red leaves which start falling, flocks of starlings on their way south...I reckon each evening there are about 300 perched on roof tops, a nearby crane and in the treetops which I look out at from my office. It is an amazing sight. Autumn also brings with it more unpleasant things, coughs and colds, flu season and central heating. Thankfully, the National Health Service here is available to rescue us. Each region of Spain runs its own health service and the system in Catalunya is excellent. I had my free flu jab yesterday, available to those over 60, people with respiratory and lung problems and also to children at risk. For the rest, there is a small cost to have the vaccine. Most towns and large villages have a medical centre known as the CAP (Centre de Attenció Primària) which is like a large clinic with GPs and other front line medical staff plus an emergency department which is open day and night.Their job is to treat your condition if they can or to refer you to the local hospital or specialist if they can’t.

That brings me to the local hospital, in my case located in a pretty seaside town called Palamós. Unfortunately, I have got to know this place rather well during the time I have lived here and once you get used to the system (which isn’t particularly cosy nor blessed with a great bedside manner), you will find an excellent medical service with totally up-to-date X-ray, scanners and other necessary medical aides. Their job is to cure you.

CAP PALAFRUGELL
(local health centre)

Of course autumn brings other activities too. Walks by the sea bathed in the lowering sunlight, jazz evenings in courtyards, sitting in local restaurants with a group of friends bemoaning the fact we can no longer sit outside at night, but warm and comfortable in the rustic interiors. And let's not forget the tramuntana wind which comes from the Pyrennees and blows hard with a distinct chill for 3 days, it's dryness taking humidity out of the air.

Yes, autumn here on the Costa Brava is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness.

Please contact me if you have any questions about life on the Costa Brava.

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
Visit my main website at: http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/