To Let or not to Let, that is the Question.....

I have a small but perfectly formed apartment to rent. It is in a very pretty seaside town in the centre of the Costa Brava. Until now, it has been let on a long-term basis, but following a disastrous tenant family, I have decided to let it only to holidaymakers for short term stays, so this is new to me.

I realise that letting it this way involves a considerable amount of extra work for me – or for those who do not live nearby their properties, for a managing agent. I have just spent the weekend carefully writing an advertisement to put on line with one of the holiday rental sites. The advert needs to be catchy but accurate and then there is the question of rates, how much to charge for each season or part thereof. Do you only want to let for a week at a time, or also for weekends? There is a good market these days for short-break lets, but of course, they demand even more work for changeovers, cleaning, etc. I have decided to offer stays of a minimum of 3 nights, except in July and August, when the minimum stay is one week.

Unlike with long-term lets, you need to provide plenty of bed linen, towels, dishcloths and kitchen towels. The kitchen should be fully equipped even though most people on holiday tend to go out to restaurants or take picnics. These days, travellers demand high standards and rightly so, but this puts an extra burden onto the property owner to ensure that everything is in excellent order and functioning. Fortunately, I am generally on hand to oversee all this, but most of you will need to employ someone to do this for you and, as with everything that one does from a distance, it is vital to find a reliable managing agent/cleaning agency. In my area, there are several English people who take care of properties throughout the year, or just in the summer season. Some require an annual payment - say of 500€ - to look after everything for the owner, others charge per visit to the property and for call outs. They will arrange for the pool to be maintained, the grass to be mowed, the house to be cleaned, repairs to be made and even, in some cases, for taxis to meet guests at airports or stations. One of my friends runs his own taxi service as well as a property management business and is also a licensed estate agent! It is extremely hard work, requiring long hours and good management skills, but financially rewarding.

The previous Catalan government was about to bring in a law requiring property owners to obtain a licence from the local town hall (ajuntament) to let their property, but following last year's elections, the new regime has not, it appears, followed this up, at least for now.

I suppose one of the main questions you must ask yourself is “do I want strangers in my (2nd) home?” If you can live with that, there is a reasonable income to be gained, though you must declare this to whichever tax authority you are registered with either in the UK or in Spain. There are expenses which can be offset against tax, such as repairs and maintenance. Most owners' incomes fall below the VAT threshold, but those with multiple properties are often classed as “businesses” and so must be registered as such.

I have a few more “tweaks” to do at my apartment before the first visitors arrive, just to make it feel more like a home, less like a hotel. In fact, it was my home originally, and so I have always looked upon it as such and I hope that the various people who stay there from now on will enjoy it as much as I did and treat it with respect.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

BARÇA – the joys and tears

Football is not really my sport. However, having lived in the UK, France and now in Spain, I cannot really avoid it, even if I wanted to. Football it seems, is far more than a game with 22 players, a round ball, 2 goal posts and lines and semicircles marked on a pitch. Rather it gives people a great sense of belonging, of pride, of joy or of sorrow. Nowhere is this more true than in Catalunya where the “only” team is affectionately known as BARÇA:

I expect many of you watched the Barcelona – Arsenal match last week. My little town of Palafrugell was like a ghost town that evening, with practically all of the citizens lodged in bars (no longer smoky!) or with friends at home glued to the TV screens. Every pass, every step, every near miss, every off-side, every yellow card – and indeed the red card – was scrutinised and marked with a clap or a groan. I did not watch the game, I did not need to, as I could hear the cheers and grunts of my many neighbours and so I knew precisely how well, or not, Barça was doing.

It must be said that Barcelona Football Club is unique to the sport. Two-thirds of their players are “home grown”, chosen at a very young age to join the academy and nurtured by the club until they reach the supreme standard required to join the Premier team. When Spain won the World Cup, 7 of the team players came from Barça and the winning goal was indeed scored by Iniesta, so the Catalans joked that Catalunya had won, rather than Spain. The celebrations in the streets that night were memorable, very noisy and extremely good-natured.

Even some Spaniards, i.e. non-Catalans, are prepared to admit that Barça is currently possibly the finest football team ever in the history of the La Liga and that Lionel Messi (along with Christiano Romnaldo) is the best football player. This is praise indeed as there is an historic, cultural, political and fervent rivalry between 2 football clubs in particular, Barça and Real Madrid (Royal Madrid), Ronaldo's team, the former founded in 1899, Real Madrid in 1902.

Barça is also unique in other ways. Its supporters are effectively shareholders and the club is donating 1.5 million Euros to Unicef and proudly wear its logo on their shirts. Tourists and football supporters can visit the Club ground, Camp Nou in Barcelona easily, as one of the main tourist buses takes you to the stadium where you can disembark, enjoy the newly refurbished museum to learn more about the history of this ambassador for Catalunya and wander through the official Club Shop.

Arsenal supporters were no doubt disappointed by last week's result in Barça's favour, but as my neighbour told me, they did not have a shot at goal during the entire match. He did think, though, that the red card for Robin Van Persie was “estúpido”. On 17th April, Barça will play Real Madrid, so once again I will learn about who is winning and who is loosing by the vocal exclamations of my neighbours while I attempt to listen to music or watch a TV programme that isn't showing the match!

Sally
The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Sea Urchins, Salt Cod and Anchovies...

The majority of people who buy property in Spain want to be close to the sea. With its long coastline, Spain offers a variety of beaches, small coves, rocky inlets and miles of sand. Enjoyable though the beach may be, it is the fruit of the sea which is the real treasure.....wonderful fish, shellfish, rock fish and not least the sea urchin (erizo de mar or garoina in Catalan).

Between mid January and mid March, there are culinary festivals celebrating this jewel of the sea. In Catalunya the better restaurants offer special menus with sea urchins as the stars. A typical menu at 40€ per person more or less, would be a dozen sea urchins (garoinas) as a starter, “fideus” which are a local speciality of noodles (pasta) and a desert, all served with the best local wines. In other parts of Spain different local offerings are served up with the sea urchins. Some hotels offer “sea urchin weekends” - for about 110€ per person you can stay in a good hotel with breakfast included as well as a sea urchin dinner and a cultural visits to places of local interest. Each year the festival includes more interesting excursions and even sea urchin meals at sea!

Of course, at other times of the year, different jewels of the sea become a speciality. Gambas de Palamòs (Palamòs prawns), for example, are a worldwide speciality to be found even as far afield as Los Angles in America in the best hotels and restaurants. These prawns cost a fortune, possibly 140€ a kilo for the largest, but having tasted them (very very occasionally), I have to say they do have a special taste of their own which is totally delicious and different from the normal prawns we consume. They are truffles as opposed to wild mushrooms.

All along the coasts of Spain you can find wonderful fresh fish and seafood. In Cadiz, Andalucia, the speciality is “urta a la roteña" which is bream cooked with tonatoes and peppers. A fish stew packed with the best fish of the area known as "abaja de pescado", is a must when visiting. Galicia, on the Atlantic coast, claims to offer 80 types of seafood, crabs and lobsters in particular. Mussels, squid and a massive variety of clams, cockles and prawns are abundant here, usually cooked in garlic, parsley and lemon and as you walk through the streets the wonderful aroma invades all your senses. In Extramadura fish is the king of “pintxos” or tapas, often spiced up with strong parprika. Another popular speciality in Spain and also south-western France and Portugal is salted cod, or “bacalao”. In times gone by it was necessary to keep the fish in salt to preserve it as of course, fridges did not exist and summer temperatures soared. This tradition is continued with passion today, and you can enjoy the most wonderful dishes of bacalao which do not in any way tatse “salty”.


About 30 minutes' drive from my town is a delightful restaurant that has 17 different bacalao dishes on the menu! This hidden-away centre of culinary excellence is called “L'Hort del Rector” (literally, the Rector's allotment or vegetable garden) and is situated on the edge of the delightful medieval stone village of Monells. The chef is Catalan and his charming wife, Canadian. They have a “menù del dia” Mondays to Fridays where you can enjoy a very good lunchtime meal for around 12€, but it is their à la carte which is so interesting, with the variety of dishes prepared with “bacalao”. My favourite is the one cooked with peppers, chili and white beans..it is truly delicious, at least for those who like spicy food. Another is salt cod with creamed potatoes, an altogether different taste sensation but equally tasty. Elsewhere, you can find yet more ways of cooking bacalao, each region having its own ideas and presentation.

Cod, though, is just one exciting speciality. Anchovies are a big thing in Spain as well. In the north of Catalunya is the seaside town of L'Escala, renouned for its anchovies and considered to be the best on the Catalunyan coast. In season, they are served fresh, for the rest of the year they are usually preserved in glass jars with olive oil and/or vinegar. They are plump and white and wonderful to eat. L'Escala boasts a museum dedicated to the anchovy and they hold a festival each year in honour of these tiny fishes.

Wherever you are near the coasts of Spain, you will have many an opportunity to discover the jewels of the sea, served as tapas or main meals. Each season brings its own delight, each region its own cuisine. Living here, I am indeed fortunate as I can go out and enjoy what the sea provides, knowing it is fresh and recently harvested, nicely presented and to be accompanied by a good local wine...but of that, another time, another blog.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company

http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Carnival and burying the sardine...

The end of February into March is Carnival (Carnaval) Season in Spain. Time to celebrate the coming of spring, longer evenings and warmer days. Time to put aside for a short while the fact that it may still be quite chilly and most evenings are spent indoors, time to go out onto the streets and have fun before the rigours of Lent.

During the Franco dictatorship, Carnaval was banned, so after his death people once again took to the streets to carry on a centuries-old tradition, each region adding its own mark to the celebrations. Interestingly, the Carnaval in both Madrid and Barcelona is quite restrained compared to cities like Sitges and Cadiz. The theory about the origin of Carnaval is that it literally means “farewell to the flesh” (Carne = meat and valle = farewell) which in more religious times was the case as people observed Lent rigorously. Nowadays schools are closed for the event and it is a “fiesta” for all to enjoy, some, it must be said, rather too much as anything goes during Carnaval. A “cohete” (rocket) signals the start of the festival in some towns, in others it could be the deafening sound of a blunderbuss, made louder by the narrowness of the streets and the sound bouncing off the buildings. Whichever method is used, you will not be allowed to sleep late that morning and will be awakened by brass bands and loud bangs quite early, usually around 8.00 am.

Later in the day, there will be a wonderful procession of floats, dancers, musicians and people dressed in impressive and colourful costumes, each group representing a theme. Last year, the most outstanding group were “the flies” whose costumes were truly amazing, we also had “Elvis”, Aztecs, gangsters and molls among a host of other creative ideas. A lot of time and immense effort go into the making of each costume and the decoration of the floats. Everyone, from elderly grandparents to their grandchildren, even in prams, can take part and it is amusing to see how the babies are dressed according to which theme their parents belong. One of the best a few years' ago were red Indians and all the children, including tiny babies were dressed accordingly, with feathers and war paint.

Noise is a vital element in the Carnaval, as are bright colours and dancing. I am fortunate in that I can watch the procession from my terrace, so the full spectacle passes by and the sound volume is slightly reduced. I usually invite friends to join me and we watch with wine flowing and tapas which I have learned to make since moving to Spain. If it is cold, we can “pop”inside for a few minutes to warm up and then return to watch the next float. Yes, it is loud and brash, but also tremendous fun, so if you are thinking of a trip to Spain, it is a good time to visit.

The floats and procession visit different towns within a vicinity over 3 days, so you can catch the show again if you missed part of it the first time. It usually starts after dark on the first night, but on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon there is an earlier parade for small children to enjoy.

On Shrove Tuesday festivities come to an end with a peculiar ceremony – the burying of the sardine ( le entierro de la sardine). One of the stories relating to its origin is that in the 17th Century, King Charles III of Spain decided to celebrate the end of Carnival with his people, commoners. A picnic in the country was arranged and sardines and wine were to offered to everyone. It was unusually hot that day and eventually the sardines began to smell extremely unpleasant. The only way to get rid of the smell was to bury the sardines! The people apparently wept as now there was no free food and ahead of them were the lean days of Lent. In towns near the sea, the sardine is buried, or cremated and its ashes taken out to be scattered over the water. Elsewhere it is burned. It is a strange tradition but so are many customs we still practise in whichever country we may live. Afterwards, you can eat sardines barbecued on large grills set up in squares and may be offered a free chocolate drink to sweeten the start of Lent.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company

http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Viva las Tapas!!

Anyone who has visited Spain will know about TAPAS. Tapas are to Spain what pasta is to Italy – quintessentially part of Spanish cuisine. Tapas however vary considerably from region to region as it is necessary to use fresh, local ingredients to produce good tapas. The origin of tapas is cloudy and it is believed they came from Andalusia in the south. The following story might be true: King Alfonso X, The Wise, (1252 -1284), was ill and needed to take small mouthfuls of food with wine between meals. Once he had recovered he wisely passed a decree stating that no tavern in Castille should serve wine unless there was food to accompany it. This was to prevent the poor of the land drinking alcohol on an empty stomach because they could ill afford a nourishing meal.

Another story relating to King Alfonso and the possible origin of tapas, was that he was travelling with his retinue when they came to Cadiz situated by the sea and well known for its high winds. The servant presenting the king with his glass of sherry, covered the glass with a slice of ham to prevent the sand from entering the king's glass. The word “tapa” literally means “cover” or “lid”. Medieval Spanish inns were no doubt dusty places, so “tapas” would have been a useful method of keeping the sherry or alcohol untainted. Many tapas are rather salty and this might have been to get the clients to drink more alcohol.

Whatever the true origin of these delightful morsels, they are to be found throughout Spain using whatever nature and agriculture has to offer in each area. For example, on the coasts, tapas are made mainly from fish and shellfish, whereas inland, they consist of ham or cheese. In Galicia they are called “pintxos” and elsewhere in the north, “alifara”. Unfortunately these days, “tapas” are often just basic items fried in oil with added salt, catering to the mass market and tourism.

When you come to live in Spain you have the opportunity to seek out “real” tapas, to try food combinations that you might never have though of, and to enjoy the social element of a good tapas bar. In a way, they are a bit like pubs in the UK used to be – a long bar, very few tables & chairs, people standing engaging in much conversation while drinking and consuming their tapas. Some modern tapas bars are more like restaurants where you are served at tables – these are perhaps not as authentic as their narrow bar cousins, but the food and wine can be just as good. I think the best tapas are still to be found in Andalusia, with Galician specialities a close second. Major cities like Madrid and Barcelona also have excellent tapas bars, but they are not usually found in the main tourist areas.

Near to where I live is the pleasant seaside town of Palamòs, which welcomes cruise ships and has an excellent local hospital. The old town, uphill from the port, is quite small but pretty with narrow streets of ancient stone buildings, many of which have become shops and bars. On Saturday, I was invited by friends to join them in Palamòs at a tapas bar which had recently opened. To my delight it is of the traditional style, long bar groaning with a myriad of different tapas to choose from, full of noisy and happy clients, TV showing a Barça football match, excellent beers and wines – plus between 9.00 pm & 10.00 pm, waiters emerging from the small kitchen handing out freshly made hot tapas to the assembled throng, rather as if you were at a cocktail party. I have to say the quality and variety of the tapas they serve are fantastic. How, you may wonder, do they know the amount each customer has consumed? Indeed there is a traditional and clever system...small cold tapas are all served with a cocktail stick in the centre, so they merely count up the number of cocktail sticks you end up with. Other tapas come in small, different shaped dishes, so you pile them up with the cocktail sticks and the staff recognise what you have eaten by the shape of the dish. As to the alcohol imbibed, some bars keep a running tab for each person, others – like the one in Palamòs – rely on the honesty of their clientèle! We were 5 people, the guys had 3 large & 3 small beers, there was a bottle of red wine, one lady had 2 glasses of white wine & another a glass of cava. Together with the tapas eaten, the entire bill was just under 60€!! Wonderful value, wonderful tapas.

I would suggest that you seek out such a bar when you are next in Spain. You may have to ask local people for recommendations, but it is well worth it and don't be afraid to try something you don't recognise as you may well have found what will become your favourite “tapas”!

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.spainbuyingguide.com/

Discounts, octopus and car parks...

Last week I went to Girona, capital city of the region in which I live. A friend and I decided to investigate the “fiera” which had been advertised – apparently this happens every year around now, and is set up so that clothes shops, linen and sports shops and others can sell off winter and last season's summer goods at up to 50% discounts. Spain is not like the UK, there are no “permanent” sales or heavily discounted events except in January and in July, at the end of the winter and summer seasons. Even then, you rarely see items for sale at more than 40% discounts, so this “fiera” in Girona is a major opportunity for people to find a good bargain.

The “fiera” was held in a large exhibition hall with each stand well spaced apart, displaying the name and location of the shop. Parking nearby was free and the car parks were full. The strange thing was that, once inside (no entry fee!), the hall seemed very tranquil and we remarked on how civilised it seemed compared to say Olympia in London, where the throng is quite overpowering. This was the perfect place to go if you were looking for something in particular – quality trainers for example, lovely bedlinen or new additions to your wardrobe. Neither my friend nor I had gone with such intentions, so we just wandered around looking for the best buys at each stand. In fact, we came away with very little but the locals were carrying several bags, especially the young, so they had found things that they had wanted.

Smaller towns hold end of season “street sales” whereby local shops sell their discounted stock from stalls, often placed outside the business itself. Here you find a mixture of wares, sometimes handmade items are next to piles of clothes or towels. These sales are usually at the weekends and the public tannoy systems blare out music to encourage a festival atmosphere. How much business is actually done is anyone's guess, but the bars and cafés take full advantage of the crowds so they at least do rather well.

From time to time, towns and larger villages have artisan fairs, where local producers of cheeses, hams and other meats, pastries and breads, wines and olive oil sit side by side with lace makers or wooden toy makers, crafts people and leather workers. It would be wrong to assume that these fairs sell things cheaply, in fact most items are rather expensive but bearing in mind they are not mass produced nor advertised, they offer the chance to taste some really excellent food and drink or to buy a handmade, one-off item for the house or as a present.

Well, after we had walked around both floors of the exhibition hall in Girona, we felt that it was definitely time for lunch and a glass of wine. My friend introduced me to a great little Italian restaurant which offered 2 courses plus glass of good wine for 12.50€ a head, slightly more costly than the usual “menu del dia” but as it turned out well worth the extra euro or two. We both started with “carpaccio de pulpo” (carpaccio of octopus) which was delicious and then had a risotto with sausage and mushrooms which was even more delicious. These, washed down with a glass of good dry white wine, rounded off our day perfectly.....
…. or it would have done had someone not hit my car in the nearby car park and broken the nearside rear light. However, our faith in human nature was quickly restored when we noticed a piece of paper on the windscreen, which turned out to be hastily written note in Catalan with a telephone number.

The next day, I rang the number and spoke to a charming man who explained that a colleague from the college where he worked in Girona had accidentally hit my car and if I would get an estimate from a garage in my town, the college would pay for the damage. This evening, I am going to collect my car, now repaired and all being well the college will refund the cost as promised. Watch this space.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com

To buy or not to buy...that is the question

I was sitting in the town square on Sunday morning, drinking coffee with some friends. It was warm enough for just a top and cardigan so we were really enjoying the sunshine. Sunday is market day here, so all the shops are open until 1.00 pm and there is a real bustle going on. We have a daily food market Tuesdays to Saturdays but on Sunday the streets come alive as much of the town is taken over by stalls selling everything from oranges to suitcases!

My friends have been renting an apartment in a pretty seaside town while they search for a property to buy. The have been renting now for 5 months and are considering renting permanently rather than buying but this will mean they will have to move as they only have a short-term lease on their apartment, which is up to one year. Long term letting requires different regulations and is heavily weighted in favour of the tenant. The duration of the lease is 5 years, during which time the tenant may leave, giving one month's notice. The owner must inform the tenant in writing that they do not wish to continue renting the property one month before the 5 year period ends or the contract will continue for another 3 years.

My friends see advantages in renting. Apart from paying the rent which sometimes includes a community charge if it is in a block of flats, and the usual utility bills, all other expenses fall upon the owner who must, by law, keep the property in good condition, but the owner is not responsible for repairing any damage caused by the tenant. It is the owner who must pay property taxes and insure the building. You can find both furnished and unfurnished rentals, many these days in brand new blocks. Some come with an opportunity to purchase the property after a period of 2 years and the rent already paid will go towards to the purchase cost.

By renting, my friends feel that they have less to worry about with inheritance tax, which is true, as all property is liable to this tax in Spain, whether it is owned by a resident or not. We discussed the question of security, knowing that no-one can force you to move within the rental period, but also the insecurity of knowing that at the end of 5 years you might have to move. Five years may seem a long time, but in fact it passes quickly, especially if you are settled and enjoying life.

The owners of the apartment they are currently renting are only interested in renting the property for short-term lets, mostly to holidaymakers. This involves extra expense as unless you are on the spot and have the time, you will need to employ a managing agent to arrange for cleaning , linen change, etc between lets. Some people advertise their holiday property on websites especially formulated for owners to manage the lettings, others prefer to use trusted local agents to fill their properties and yet others use a mixture of the two. Good properties in popular areas can generate a reasonable income but beware – this income is taxable, whether you are a UK or Spanish resident and must be declared.

I have quite a few friends who act as managing agents for UK property owners, some require a percentage of the rental, others a flat fee for the year. This can be quite stressful work especially during the height of the season in July and August, when there is just a short time to clean a property between one tenant leaving and the next arriving. The managing agent also has to deal with any urgent repairs or other problems on behalf of the owner, make sure the pool is in good order, that the pump works properly and that the gardens are well maintained. It is not a job for the faint-hearted!

Well, only time will tell whether my friends finally decide to rent or buy. For the moment, they are enjoying their rental apartment by the sea, content in the knowledge that should there be any problem, the landlord is required to deal with it efficiently.

Sally

The Overseas Guides Company
http://www.Spainbuyingguide.com